Figured I'd make a post of the outcome of redoing the stock and barrel with no experience outside of Google and Reddit assistance! Just a big thanks to the suggestions and some before and after pics! I'm pretty stoked about this and hope it's okay to post. Quite happy with the outcome and decided to just go with Tru Oil.

Hey, could someone please tell me the measurement from the picture uploaded. my CZ is in the mail but i want to order a reverse faux suppressor

i have a chinese sks, cosmoline all cleaned up, but when i shoot it (norinco non-corrosive) the cartridges come out all dirty with some kind of soot all over them. is that normal? otherwise it works perfectly and ive never had a jam. ive just never seen a semi auto ejecting brass so dirty before

Brand new gun, first few round, and it is doing this, and it kept happening for the rest of the mags. Is it a mag problem? Or is it a gun problem, I’m a complete newbie in debugging guns. And I don’t know what caused this kind of failure after firing.

The mag is pro mag rem597 22 round with the adapter came in the box of this gun.

I would love to know the answer and gain some knowledge as well! (Ignore the missing battery cap)

Wondering if anyone has this same issue.

I have the Bad Ace scope mount and I’m using the Archangel mags. It’s done this basically for as long as I’ve had the optics mount so im assuming that’s my issue. If anyone else has had this issue I’d appreciate some help on how to resolve it.

Should I remove the front sight on my AR while having a red dot or should I keep it?

P.S I can see the red dot nicely appear right on top of the sight

Please critique! 🫡

I have a Canucks Operator Elite that I’ve had for about a year. I’ve only put under 100 rounds through it (shot it maybe 5 times total).

I mounted a Romeo red dot on the Picatinny rail. One day I noticed the whole rail was loose. When I got home and removed the red dot, I found that two of the four screws that mount the rail to the gun were already completely out—they had just been hidden under the optic mount.

I removed the rail, put Loctite on the screws, and tried to reinstall it. The problem is the hole for the rear most screw is completely stripped. I can’t tighten it at all.

Has anyone dealt with this on a Canucks / Operator Elite? What are some options to fix it? Or ask for manufacturer to help?

edit: clarified it's the screw hole that was stripped

Just got a brand new Benelli M2. Had to return others due to machining defects in the sights and reciever (dents that have the factory finish over them)

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Newest example i got has some of the worst machining mistakes I have seen around the barrel ring.

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Stoeger customer support told me to kick rocks and it wouldn't be covered by warranty. I suppose it is cosmetic, but for a $2000+ premium shotgun, I expected more.

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I've seen a lot of people talk down on turkish guns, but so far italian manufacturing has left a lot to be desired.

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Anyway, if anyone has any recommendations for touching up the finish and gap on the side (picture 3) i would appreciate it.

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It’s not every time but the ramp won’t fully seat down sometimes. It’s almost like the magazine tube spring puts too much pressure on the ramp so it doesn’t go down all the way. It likes to start on rounds 3 and 4 (7 round capacity) Sometimes 2 if it feels extra. When it does that, pushing the loading get in pushes the ramp down and “fixes” it. Not sure if it’s the ramp itself with an issue but levering it with nothing in seems to fully seat the ramp.

I’ve shot about 20 rounds through it. It worked flawlessly. This go around I loaded it up, but didn’t have a need to shoot it (went out to check for coyotes) so I went to unload. That’s when I noticed this issue.

Never seen this on a shotgun shell before today. Testing out a 30 round drum mag on a Canuck Recon 3 and about 8-9 shells out of 60 had this damage on it. Had a lot of double feeds and it looked like the extractor was catching the 2nd bottom round and is probably what did this.

Hey there,

Anyone out there do all the mods to add the TNA magwell adapter to their SKS, only for your magazine to pop out without pressing the release button when cycling the bolt? I took the magwell off along with the magazine to try to see if itd fall out, and pressing down with my thumb on the most forward part of the top of the magazine makes it pop out too. Id be inclined to believe that the magwell is the issue itself, but figured id see what others are saying first before trying to return it or getting a new one?

While not as satisfying as 40 minutes of precise carving with solid foam, t​his pre-scored stuff is so fast. Took me less than five minutes to shape my silhouette. Wifey took ten minutes for her Derya but she also got a foam rifle as an achievement trophy, LOL ​

Has anyone used Gravel Agency for warranty repairs? I know it’s Canada and we have trouble getting gun parts in (especially handgun parts). But with that said, I’ve had a Walther pistol there awaiting parts for one year now (no end in sight).

Is this a normal wait time?

I’ve had guns repaired under warranty by them before and it’s usually 4-6 months turnaround.

I dropped off an shotgun barrel back in December to have it threaded for chokes and it still hasn't been done yet. I called about 2 months ago and he said was really busy and hadn't gotten to it yet and he would call me when its done. is this a normal wait time these days?

I have installed a Leupold Mark 5HD to the picatinny rail of my rifle (Ruger GSR .308 WIN) and the scope just barely, but definitely, makes contact with two 'teeth' of the rail.
I'm using an XS Sights Rail instead of the shorter original rail, since it allows optimal placement for eye relief and better placement of the scope rings along the main tube (as well as allowing the installation of more tools, like an ACI mount).
When I did some searching, it was more or less confirmed that I should avoid allowing the scope and barrel to make contact, so I attempted to remove the XS rail and try the fit with the original rail, however one of the screw heads stripped and I didn't continue (only blue loctite was applied but I used a soldering pen in the head and the screw head seemingly got too soft very quickly). Since, it will now be a hassle to order replacement screws, remove the stripped one, and try swapping the rails (- and, in the end, the original rail may still be less optimal-), I'm wondering if it is worth the trouble or absolutely necessary to ensure there is zero contact?

I want to avoid getting new (higher) scope rings because I live in a remote area and it will take a long time, I love the height of the scope as is, and I spent a lot for the ones I already have. However, more importantly, I want to avoid damaging the scope or having to constantly re-zero it.

The rifle has a free-floating barrel and I have NOT fired it since the scope was installed.

I have attached two images -- although it looks like all teeth are touching, there is clearance between all but two and a paper easily slides between the rail and scope except at those two teeth; unfortunately, however, the two teeth where it makes contact at are directly under the objective lens (where the scope model name is featured in white).

Hey everyone. Just got a RIA imports TM22, brought it out today for its first real target shooting. Put around 200 rounds through it and at the end, the magazine catch button popped out. It seems the threads on it are stripped so the catch button screw won’t thread into it. Has anyone else had this problem? Or know where to get metal one?

Thanks for all the input guys. Ended up going to a local gunsmith and got a pair.

Anyone know a hardware store that carry these screws ? #6-40 1/4” or 3/8”

Hey everyone
Looking to clean this up what is the right way to do this? Or someone local in Vancouver that can
Brad

Around 1300 rounds in, started having some jamming issues with improperly ejecting. Soon after the left extractor pin decided to throw in the towel. It snapped clean off. I've let to take it apart, but it shot a few mags fine afterwords. Anything to worry about? My plan is to remove the remaining of the extractor pin (if anything) rather than going through warranty.

Hey, I bought an Adler rf 224 the other day (I am aware it has some mixed reviews, I just wanted a cheap 22 to shoot) I put maybe 20 rounds threw it, and it proceeded to have a bunch of issues, from not extracting the casing properly and then it started just refusing to feed a new round in. It seemed to me like the bolt wasn't coming back far enough to pickup the next round. I took it apart and found the bolt spring wasn't in its seat. I'm just curious what you guys think, to me it looks like the corner of the seat is knocked off , so there's nothing keeping the spring from going to the side. But I didn't find any debris or that chunk that I think is missing. Am I correct in guessing that the seat is broken? Or am I over thinking it? First picture is how I believe it should sit, second one was how I found it, 3rd is with the spring removed. Sorry if this sounds dumb lol, never taken a firearm apart/worked on one before.

this kinda handguard  i have a tm22 ria feather ive seen people do it with the deyra tm22 on a youtube video idk if i can with my gun

I've been having this issue with my SKS where the 5th round feeds vertically and the bolt carrier slams into the side of it. This happens between 3 and 5 times per 100 rounds

I've seen some solutions online but don't fully understand the terminology used to fix it

Has anybody else had this issue and know how to solve it?

Went to shoot my new 307 today. Nope. Weatherby put a short action spring and mechanism in my 7prc magnum bolt. I don’t know how this even happened. Gotta send it back now. Sad Friday…

Hey all.

I see all these really cool mods people have done to thier SKS.

Is there a good guide or tutorial recommendation you have for bubbaing these things up?