Good morning folks,

As titled, I'm looking for recommendations for an experienced gunsmith preferably in BC, although I would be willing to travel.

Back in '23 Kelowna had a devastating wildfire that destroyed well over 100 homes, mine and several friends of mine included. In those houses unfortunately was recently frozen, now irreplaceable handguns. Pictured is mine and in very poor condition.

I am looking for a gunsmith to attempt to repair mine, girsan regard MC in 9mm and two iwi jericho's for a friend, both in much better condition than mine, one in .40 and one in 9mm.

If you have any experience with your local gunsmith, please rave them to me. We were going to go through Dlask, but unfortunately for us, fortunately for him, he is now enjoying a well-earned retirement.

I'd rather take them in person, but I would be willing to ship if the right gunsmith doesn't happen to be on my doorstep.

Cat tax including feet in lieu of my nasty feet. I apologize.

So, I will say it’s gotten “better” after putting about 350 rounds but my current issues are:

Not so much failure to eject but failure to chamber a round/cycle a round. - I’ve found loading 8/9 rounds per magazine instead of 10 makes a huge difference however I still get these squibs? No bullet stuck in the barrel but it just explodes in the chamber.

The Tommy enterprise Mag sleeves were a bit of an issue, they don’t quite seat properly without a love tap and yes they are the proper fitment and secured tightly. The current video attached actually broke the mag sleeve.

I’ll post a photo in a comment below showing what’s happening to the shells when it just jams them rather than propels chambering the round. No idea if it’s just the ammo (Aguila interceptor) or if it’s too high of spring tension on the magazine or if I have an actual issue with the action.

Buddy brought out his Canuck Operator tonight and we ran it like we usually do. We were shooting a mix of miscellaneous ammo: target loads, 3” steel birdshot, and 2 3/4" slugs.

On the last string, we had a failure to extract. Upon inspection, the shell was expanded and stuck in the chamber, the primer was sticking out of the brass, and the bolt head basically exploded.

Never seen this happen before.

It’s my first time taking this rifle out, and when I chambered a round I noticed how loose this was. I was hoping for some guidance as I’m unfamiliar with them.

It’s nice and tight when uncocked.

This seems unsafe to me so I unloaded the rifle and shot my Garand instead before it started raining.

I’d appreciate any help!

A gunsmith is out of the question, as the closest one is 800km south of me.

EDIT: well, thanks for the sassy help I guess lol. Just wanted to confirm it was safe as I’m still learning. My Enfield, and K98 wasn’t sloppy at all so wasn’t sure if this was wrong or unsafe.

Edit 2 thanks for all the actual help and info! It’s very appreciated

Is this safe to shoot long term? I dont want the pitting to lead to a larger failure down the line. I’d like to use this rifle long term as it is my go to semi right now.

Also, would normal cleaning and oiling prevent it from worsening?

Thanks!

Hey all

After many recommendations I got myself an SKS.

I just did a takedown and a cleaning thanks to some videos, but I’m having trouble putting it back together, namely when snapping in the trigger group.

I seem to have the mag assembled and trigger aligned well but I’m unable to snap it in place no matter how hard I push. Any help would be appreciated!

EDIT: Thanks everyone, indeed I just HIT IT EVEN HARDER!! It’s all clean and put back together

Hello! First post. I have a turkunelli clone. After first 50 shells (score 00 buck) I had 5 malfunctions. All of them failures to feed. The shells were damaged trying to be fed. See picture for example.

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Thoughts? Is this something that may resolve itself as I continue to break the gun in?

I have received an sks that has a barrel which has been cut and crowned down to 18.6”. The owner told me it has been short cycling, which from my research says could be due to either the gas system being loose or more likely due to the dwell time in the barrel now being shorter.

I am going to bring this gun to the range with a bunch of spare parts for a day to start troubleshooting it, and see if I can get it to work. My current fix steps are below, am I missing anything? Do you guys have any tips to help this cycle? 18.6 Sks pictured with a cherrywood stock for attention.

1. Try it as normal, if it doesn’t work then -

2. Swap gas tube to second one

3. Tape front end of gas tube in case of gas loss

4. Swap long gas pistons

5. Swap short gas piston and spring

6. Swap recoil spring

7. Swap bolt and carrier

8. Try a detachable mag and new ammo?

Worst case if it still doesn’t run, I may look into either getting a lighter recoil spring or cutting down an extra one to see if that lightens the bolt. Thanks!

I was able to get the ProMag Archangel magazine to fit in my SKS after trimming the edges a bit. It is still a pretty tight fit, though.

Now I am trying to figure out if there is a way to close the bolt with an empty magazine inserted. Does it remain open or am I doing something wrong. I know I have to keep the bolt open to insert the mag.

I have heard people mention some kind of workaround or “hack,” but I am not sure if that applies to inserting the magazine with the bolt closed or something else.

Good day. I have tried different ammo brands and weights, but I am getting terrible accuracy out of this rifle. Two shots on top of each other, then a hit 4 or 5 inches away. Then it seems my point of impact changes to that flyer. I cleaned the rifle after and found what looks like steel shavings on the cleaning patch. I have put around 300 rounds through the barrel hopping it was just break in period, but no success. Any advice would be appreciated. All of the screws are tight as well.

My buddy's dad is selling me his Russian SKS and I seen that there was a piece missing here. Should I replace it or is it ok to use?

So I bought a Chinese Sks French tickler two days ago. I take it home, disassemble it and clean it. Then I realize the Safety is loose, there is no tension. so holding it technically it’s always live.

I take it to the store and they say they don’t have tools to fix it, the safety catch spring blade is probably broken and it will cost me 188 plus tax to replace the entire trigger group.

I’m in Ontario and am trying to find a cheaper solution, whether it be a new trigger group for cheaper or fixing the issue.

I honestly don’t got much experience with guns…

Appreciate it

Installed 16 inch shaw bull barrel, went to shoot it this weekend and at 25 meters it shoots about an inch low from where I am aiming with the scope maxed out. I am assuming this is barrel droop and I am wondering what is the best solution?

Option 1: The magpul stock came with a barrel shim, I can use that to prop it up, might affect accuracy since it will no longer be “free floated”

Option 2: 20 moa pic rail to point the scope downward

Option 3: I also read about a upgraded v block but not sure if I need to file the barrel

Edit: I think the reason for it shooting low is the v block is over torqued and pulling the barrel downward, I will retorque and see if that fixes the issue

Can anyone with this lovely stock confirm whether the SBI Remington 597 magazine adapter works with the Samson B-TM stock?

Hey, could someone please tell me the measurement from the picture uploaded. my CZ is in the mail but i want to order a reverse faux suppressor

Brand new gun, first few round, and it is doing this, and it kept happening for the rest of the mags. Is it a mag problem? Or is it a gun problem, I’m a complete newbie in debugging guns. And I don’t know what caused this kind of failure after firing.

The mag is pro mag rem597 22 round with the adapter came in the box of this gun.

I would love to know the answer and gain some knowledge as well! (Ignore the missing battery cap)

i have a chinese sks, cosmoline all cleaned up, but when i shoot it (norinco non-corrosive) the cartridges come out all dirty with some kind of soot all over them. is that normal? otherwise it works perfectly and ive never had a jam. ive just never seen a semi auto ejecting brass so dirty before

Just got a brand new Benelli M2. Had to return others due to machining defects in the sights and reciever (dents that have the factory finish over them)

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Newest example i got has some of the worst machining mistakes I have seen around the barrel ring.

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Stoeger customer support told me to kick rocks and it wouldn't be covered by warranty. I suppose it is cosmetic, but for a $2000+ premium shotgun, I expected more.

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I've seen a lot of people talk down on turkish guns, but so far italian manufacturing has left a lot to be desired.

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Anyway, if anyone has any recommendations for touching up the finish and gap on the side (picture 3) i would appreciate it.

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Wondering if anyone has this same issue.

I have the Bad Ace scope mount and I’m using the Archangel mags. It’s done this basically for as long as I’ve had the optics mount so im assuming that’s my issue. If anyone else has had this issue I’d appreciate some help on how to resolve it.

Should I remove the front sight on my AR while having a red dot or should I keep it?

P.S I can see the red dot nicely appear right on top of the sight

Please critique! 🫡

Hey everyone. Just got a RIA imports TM22, brought it out today for its first real target shooting. Put around 200 rounds through it and at the end, the magazine catch button popped out. It seems the threads on it are stripped so the catch button screw won’t thread into it. Has anyone else had this problem? Or know where to get metal one?

While not as satisfying as 40 minutes of precise carving with solid foam, t​his pre-scored stuff is so fast. Took me less than five minutes to shape my silhouette. Wifey took ten minutes for her Derya but she also got a foam rifle as an achievement trophy, LOL ​

I have installed a Leupold Mark 5HD to the picatinny rail of my rifle (Ruger GSR .308 WIN) and the scope just barely, but definitely, makes contact with two 'teeth' of the rail.
I'm using an XS Sights Rail instead of the shorter original rail, since it allows optimal placement for eye relief and better placement of the scope rings along the main tube (as well as allowing the installation of more tools, like an ACI mount).
When I did some searching, it was more or less confirmed that I should avoid allowing the scope and barrel to make contact, so I attempted to remove the XS rail and try the fit with the original rail, however one of the screw heads stripped and I didn't continue (only blue loctite was applied but I used a soldering pen in the head and the screw head seemingly got too soft very quickly). Since, it will now be a hassle to order replacement screws, remove the stripped one, and try swapping the rails (- and, in the end, the original rail may still be less optimal-), I'm wondering if it is worth the trouble or absolutely necessary to ensure there is zero contact?

I want to avoid getting new (higher) scope rings because I live in a remote area and it will take a long time, I love the height of the scope as is, and I spent a lot for the ones I already have. However, more importantly, I want to avoid damaging the scope or having to constantly re-zero it.

The rifle has a free-floating barrel and I have NOT fired it since the scope was installed.

I have attached two images -- although it looks like all teeth are touching, there is clearance between all but two and a paper easily slides between the rail and scope except at those two teeth; unfortunately, however, the two teeth where it makes contact at are directly under the objective lens (where the scope model name is featured in white).

Around 1300 rounds in, started having some jamming issues with improperly ejecting. Soon after the left extractor pin decided to throw in the towel. It snapped clean off. I've let to take it apart, but it shot a few mags fine afterwords. Anything to worry about? My plan is to remove the remaining of the extractor pin (if anything) rather than going through warranty.

this kinda handguard  i have a tm22 ria feather ive seen people do it with the deyra tm22 on a youtube video idk if i can with my gun