First shot of the day my sks did this. Anyone know what caused this and how I can fix this? Is this a gunsmith problem? I should add its stuck, I tried popping it out both with a ram rod and prying it out and its stuck pretty good

I recently picked up a tm-22 and I really like it the only downside is it’s having a ton of light primer strike issues atleast once or twice a a mag on average I was wondering if anyone knew how to fix it without sending it back

Got a CZ 600+ LUX in 7.62x39. Guns definitely designed to meet a fast paced "European Driven Hunt" kindov vibe. Its got a mini action length 60 degree throw bolt, a perfectly placed tang safety and super light "Tikka like" trigger. The center piece feature of the LUX model is undeniably the fiber optic floating iron sights. Best ive ever witnessed and ultimately why i bought the gun. The sight radius is only 9.5", so once again likely designed around that close range Driven Hunt vibe.

Last year I mounted a generic LPVO nice and low on it. It was an excellent 200m hunting setup, but it also felt like a waste to not have the irons available for anything other then an emergency (quick detach rings). So i thought id be cool develop an optic setup that doesnt obstruct the irons. Featured in the pics is just 3D printed prototypes, the final examples will be CNC'ed Aluminum. Mounts are designed to accommodate the Primary Arms Prisms, this particular one is the 5x .223/.308 Aurora. Was tempted to get the 3x 7.62x39 model, but wanted more zoom.

Setup one is the method I like the most, very SVD like in that the optic hangs off the left side around .400". Shooter has a light cheek weld. Easier to machine, looks less janky IMO. Unfortunately A LOT of shooters cant stand horizontally offset optics, each to their own.

Setup 2 has the optic centered over the bore, but it probably sits roughly .400" higher then the lowest of optic setups. Resulting in more of a jaw bone / chin weld. Looks off and on very janky from certain angles lol. More annoying to machine.

Alright, i will 100% give credit where credit is due. there is definitely some truth to the "break in" for everybody that was hanging from the chandeliers screaming it. Definitely to an extreme though. Decided to try a tiny dollop of fine valve lapping compound in the high friction areas in the action and I ran the absolute piss out of the action by hand while i watched a few videos to kill some time. tore everything back apart, cleaned thoroughly and re oiled the same as before, i had just enough time to hit the range before dark so I gave it a shot. It successfully fed the first three and then failed the fourth. After clearing that one failure, it has ran 200 rounds completely flawless. After 200 rounds and hours of cycling the damn thing including with lapping compound the gun runs like absolute butter, very enjoyable to shoot. That being said I still think its absolutely heinous it took that to make a $2600 rifle shoot. And to boot, after the handgaurd has been off a few times I can say with positivity, the hand gaurd bolts still mar the barrel nut. Its not horrible but its not a "fixed" problem.

Still building this one out so only a quick one here. I can’t wait to post the “and now I have two rifles” post in a couple more weeks. 😭 (this is the Fletcher RifleWorks OpenTop 11/22 Takedown Receiver).

Bottom of the hand guard end of the pump handle before magazine tube extension. Spas12 clone

Build:
- SBI ST/22 receiver
- factory 10/22 bolt
- SBI G3 chassis
- SBI minimalist stock
- Magpul K2 grip
- Magpul G2 flip up sights (plastic)
- CNC 10/22 trigger
- G3 handguard enclosure XL
- Olight Odin mini with pressure pad
- Magpul mlock vertical foregrip

While test fitting the 25/22 butler creek magazines, I watched as this screw dropped out of no where (pretty sure it fell from the rifle). Ever since, I took it apart and can’t locate a single point where this screw came off from. Does anyone know if such screw even exists on any of these parts? It may very well be that the screw came from something else and was just magnetized along somewhere on the rifle lol. The screw is very small, star pattern and silver/stainless steel looking.

Thanks!!!

Where can I get some new furniture to make it look less plain

My tm22 had tons of light strikes, even after being sent in for warranty "repair" twice. I finally got it working reliably by doing two of the suggested fixes people recommend. Neither of these fixes worked on their own. The trick was removing the left extractor AND cutting a few coils off the firing pin spring. Just sharing this for others who are having light strike problems with their tm22s. I avoided cutting the spring for a long time because I didn't want to void the warranty, but the warranty "repairs" were useless in my experience

I’m looking for something like this (picture) does anyone have a source for something like it? Buffer tube to pic rail? I want to be able to use a mil-spec stock and I have the Midwest industries picatinny buffer tube already, just need a means to use it on the tm22 pro. Thanks for the help!

First picture at 25 yards, second 200.

Shooting low and to the right, doesn’t matter how much I turn up the elevation it just won’t get to where I’m aiming. What am I doing wrong?

I don’t think it’s entirely up to a flinch reflex, I ended up turning the elevation up to the max and I never ended up shooting over the target a single time.

Edit: 25 yard group was shooting seated with my elbows supported on my knees and a hasty sling around my offhand tricep for extra stability. 200 yard group was with a sandbag under the front and back of the gun

First time out on the M3500 Waterfowl.

Night before I cleaned and lube it to remove that thick lubricant factory puts on. Heard it was giving people a headache.

First box of clay shells went by with no issues. Things fell apart after 1 shot of 3.5inch. Failed to extract that one and after that it was 50 50 if it would fail to extract or eject. With a few working properly for the 2nd shell and the fail for the 3rd. Tried to feed a shell without extracting the shot one too sometimes. A general headache.

Benelli M2 extractor and spring have been ordered. Will do another cleaning to see how it goes next time.

Anybody here with similar issues ?

Just picked up this baby. I love it the look of it as is but would love to add a scope and maybe a front grip if possible?
Does anyone know of any non permanent picatinny rail options?

Thanks in advance

I've kept it oiled and stored in a silicone-treated gun sock since I got it a few weeks ago and yet it seems like I'm getting surface rust on the lifter anyway. I tried hitting it with 0000 steel wool and oil and it didn't come off with light pressure.

Just curious what it is (whether it is surface rust or not), whether I need to worry about it, and if there's anything else I can do in such a case.

EDIT: and before you downvote, this is the first gun I've actually taken to shoot so I'm new to a lot of this stuff.

mounted a red dot on 1301, couldnt get a cheek weld on it without the dot disappearing.

grabbed some foam from a gun case, used double sided tape, then strapped it down with zip ties. seems pretty stable but havent used it with rounds yet.

cowitness achieved, what issues could arise from this. just put together a ghetto quick solution for turkey season.

I have a .223,.22LR, 7.62x39 and a 12 gauge. Do I need any kind of speciality screwdrivers for cleaning? I'm in the trades so I have a lot of different sized screwdriver bits but I don't know if I have any super small ones. The only thing I don't have is a torque screwdriver, should I buy a kit with the torque screwdriver and a bunch of different sized heads?

I was tightening my Mossberg and the choke tool slipped, is it safe to shoot with the burring at the end of the barrel and inside the choke tube? I’m running my finger tip across it and it’s stopping since it’s a little deep.

I am planning on buying one but can’t decide to get the 12.5 or 16.5 barrel version and what gun to build its cope build around

I had taken my Raven out of the safe a week or so ago to give her a lube job before locking it back up for another year.

I figured before throwing it back in the safe I'd run some snapcaps through it. But whenever I went to drop the mag it wouldn't drop unless I used the left side release. When I press the right side it doesn't fully move the release all the way. Maybe only like 85% I was wondering if anyone else has had this issue or knows a fix

I never had an issue running mags before the ban...

I really want a revolver but nr so I thought if I add a pistol grip and like 20 inch barrel can it count as nr

Hello all, as apart of my target shooting collection (Savage 22LR, Ruger American Gen II 223, SKS, and benelli nova 3 pump) I'm just wondering if there is a cleaning kit that would be able to do all these sizes or would I need to buy different rods separately for each one.

In addition to the brush, can all these guns have the same oil used on them? And if so what should I be getting

Hello, I have a shotgun I’d like fitted and potentially another bead installed. Is there anyone in the Hamilton and Brantford area that is recommended? Or a shop perhaps? Thanks.

where can i buy
want one on side that holds at least 6 and one match saver

Screwed up revolver reassembly, bent the sear and loosened the trigger group. Do we have anyone that welds, fabricates parts and anything in between? Universal gunsmith of sorts that will do everything so I don't need several people.

Looking for a small local gunsmith or someone with a lathe in the Calgary or south of Calgary area to help me shorten a shotgun barrel.

The end split open but I’ve inspected and had it Mag particle inspected and found where the crack ends and I want to cut it an inch or two past the end of the crack

I want it done on a lathe instead of using a saw or something so it’s straight and a clean cut to avoid any more cracks forming or issues on the end. And I’m not interested in waiting for the Calgary shooting center or some place that has me waiting 2 weeks for a 15 min job