I’m having a firing issue with my Henry. It works occasionally but it may take 3 or 4 tries to fire a round. I think the firing pin needs to be replaced. Is there anywhere in southern Ontario along the 401 corridor that I can take this to for repairs or parts? Thanks!

In total around around 2500 rounds. Both extractors broke off at the same place, left one first about a month ago , then the right one. I did otherwise like the TM22, it was reliable until it wasn't.

To me it looks like the extractors has a weak point right at the extractor pin as both of them broke off almost identically there.

I wonder if anyone else with newer manufactured TMs has had similar extractor issues or I am just unlucky.

Does anyone have a video or some good pictures for exactly what I'm supposed to do for this modification? I got mine used and it jams all the time I thought they were all like that but I've seen removing the left extractor can help cycling. I heard all I need is an Allen key and a punch but I don't want to punch a wrong hole by accident lol

Update

I drilled those screws out, 3 of them came out easily enough that I think I did not mess up the threads. I only botched 1. I am sure 3 screws and some locktight mixed with hope will hold the rail in place

Just got myself a Mossberg 590 Shockwave. Want to mount a laser/red dot on top of the receiver but not sure what type of screw these are. Internet says they should be flathead but they are clearly not. Can someone help with some tips please?

But I'm being told possessing such a scan might be illegal in Canada and I did not know that as I'm not from there. I joined the sub because you guys always seem to have interesting firearms posted.

I will post pictures of one that is legal in my country (for now). I hope you enjoy the aesthetics anyway. It is a .22lr bolt action with a 20" Keystone arms match bull barrel and an AR15 Fire control group.

Ad500 tac in 308, I have the stock off the buffer tube, roll pin out of the grip but it's still stuck. Is there something internal holding it to the receiver ? Also has anyone replaced the grip yet? I need a better option

Bought my SW 1854 Stealth Hunter recently. Dumped few rounds and suddenly noticed a possible crack.

Not sure if it’s just the spot where the bolt inserts/seats, or if it’s actually cracked.

Please help me take a look😭 Just bought it

Anyone have a henry Homesteader? I fuckin stripped the front screw for thr forearm and couldn't help but notice hoe god damn tight it was. In the end its most definitely my fault, just want to know if its all in my head.

I recently purchased an 18inch tm22 pro. But I’ve been having a hell of a time with it.

First time shooting I was getting a light strike every other round probably 50% failure rate.

I broke it down fully cleaned and oiled everything and took it back out to the range and I’ve found I’m still getting light strikes maybe 20% of the time which is better than 50%. I inquired about warranty service but that’s shipping on my own time and quite a long turnaround through SFRC.

Does anyone have any suggestions or experience with this? I’ve thought about cutting maybe a coil or 2 off the firing spin spring to make it easier to move?

i have a tm22 ria feather ik you cant dry fire most 22s but some you can

Hi sorry for asking this very basic question but idk what I’m doing. Trying to install this pro mag but idk what to shave and what not to. Any guidance and help would be appreciated.

On the Brigade Arms Makasi, what is the serialized part? If it is the lower, could someone buy the upper, handguard, BCG, and other proprietary parts from BA and take barrel and bolt from a donor rifle? I know you would either need the same position/length of the gas port, or you would have to plug the existing port ala a Renegade and drill a new port. I was thinking this way people can make their own upper for 300 Blackout, 7.62x39 mm, Grendel, 6 mm ARC, etc without having to wait on Brigade Arms. Thanks!

Edit: Thanks to Acceptable_Visit_115 down-thread for confirming the lower is the serialized part.

I emailed Chris at Third Echelon in Edmonton a while back. He used to make mid-length pistons for the WK180-C. If someone has a Makasi in Edmonton, he can measure the piston for comparison to see if his leftover stock of pistons will work with the rifle. You can email him at [c@thirdechelon.ca](mailto:c@thirdechelon.ca) . Someone like Neuman Metalworks may also have the wherewithal to make different lengths of piston, if there is demand. Time will tell.

Just got this SKS. When chambering a brass round, it scrapes a big chunk of brass off the casing.
It happens right at the bottom edge of the chamber (circled in blue).
Is this normal? If not, how do I fix it? Thanks!

So, I experienced an out of battery discharge in my TM-22 feather. I stopped shooting, and took the gun apart inspecting the barrel. I noticed when I ran a cleaning rod through it that the rod got completely stuck mid way down the barrel. I was using CCI ARTactical, and I only owned the gun for less than 3 days.

I dropped it off at the warranty place and was told 3-4 weeks at drop off, I have followed up once every two weeks and was told the same “its in queue”. It is now creeping up on 6 weeks, I sent an email asking for clarification as to when it will be looked at and the email has gone unanswered for 5 days.

Im wondering what I can do in this case? I get warranty work takes time, but the window I was told it would be looked at has passed by a decent margin.

Im merely asking for insight, I am not bashing or trying to slander.

Was shooting the Alcor the other day when it locked up on me with a round in the chamber. I field stripped it to get the round out of the barrel, and found the firing pin jammed in the receiver behind the bolt carrier. Not really sure what caused it, but the firing pin took a big bite out of the roll pin and ejected itself out the back of the bolt. Only about 100 rounds through it, any ideas?

Was going to switch out my main take down pin (8mm guy) with a high grade half thread bolt and nut. Mine has become so loose and i don't want to threadlock it in all the time..

Would anyone have any objections to that, reasons why i shouldn't etc?

Thank you

Bought a new GSG Mauser 1911 22LR with the CCI Clean HV ammo (the polymer coated kind) and I think one magazine the very first worked well while the rest jammed every other shot either failure to extract or feed or both. By the end had to cycle the slide manually after every other shot to get another shot and then click nothing jam again. The casing would be stuck on the slide as it closed on it without ejecting fully or the next round would not feed properly and be stuck in some weird position. The extra magazines were bought separately but are compatible the Sig Sauer kind. Everything is metal. That was the very first time firing any gun and went through 100 rounds.

Any idea what's going wrong?

I'm thinking to try cleaning/oiling the new gun. It could be due to there being too much friction or the heavy slide not pushing back easily enough.

Maybe trying different ammunition copper plated and/or even higher velocity (current was 1200, maybe 1400 or 1600).

Reload magazines slower and load with the slide locked back and then manually let the slide close slowly not using the side switch to snap it back. I think the instructions say to reload with the slide locked back and to manually release it forward slowly. I'm not sure if that matters. Some magazines were loaded with the slide forward and wouldn't quite click in easily. I guess it's not like in the movies.

Anyway I wasn't sure if it was something wrong with the 1911 or something wrong that I did.

Luckily I was able to get more than one 22LR handgun so this is another reason why it's good to get two or three different ones in case of issues like this.

Had the good fortune of getting a decently priced SKS. Bad news, cheap ass folding TAPCO stock that wouldn't lock in place; accidentally managed to lock it in place by snapping off the stock...

What would your recommendations be for a decent stock for an ol' Romanian SKS? Looking for options beyond the timelessn wood since I've already got one in all its woody glory.

Cheers

For reference I live in Victoria BC, after Pullen’s passing there really is not a lot of options here. I potentially would be fine with shipping to vetted gunsmiths. I’m looking for someone who is good with antique revolvers etc.

Thank you

So I am not new to shooting but have yet to experience this. And yes i k ow I sound dumb but I gotta ask.

When i am running my Ruger American Ranch, I find that the rifle "hops" after each shot. I am holding tight as I do with any other rifle. Admittedly this is my first "short " rifle. Could it be caused by the muzzle blast? Its 6.5 Creedmoor if that helps. It really not causing any issue with accuracy but is killing my follow through.

If i put it in my BOG tripod it is nearly non existent, which is why I feel it may be muzzle blast coming off the shooting table at the range.

Picked up a burris fullfield 2-8x. Scope was clear and fine, holding a zero on my old gun. No issues.

I buy a new gun and give the gunsmith the scope with the rings on already to install it before they close. I take the gun to shoot and I see that it's clear on ONLY 4x. Adjusting the focus only makes either the image or reticle blurry.

It also does not hold a zero after 3-5 shots.

Did the gunsmith crush the tube?

Reluctantly bought a generic *run of mill* 91/30 for an embarrassing price. It has a frosty bore, but otherwise seemed to be in good - great condition with pronounced rifling.

I thoroughly cleaned the gun including the barrel and chamber.

The bolt cycles buttery smooth, chambers and extracts unfired rounds fluidly. But when fired, I gotta halfass slap the bolt up and partially back before the spent casing will properly extract.

To improve extraction, does this sound like something a good chamber polishing would solve ? Or is there some other quirky Mosin remedy I'm unaware of ?

Bought an heirloom shotgun and it’s been fine for a few years, this summer was brutally humid in my house and I took it out for a 6 month checkup/dusting and noticed pitting and rust on the barrel.

Would a re-oiling and dehumidifier fix this or should I get the barrel re-blued ?

(Using 3 in 1 Oil rather than a gun specific oil - should I use something else?)

Someone (in CGN) took a busted Webley MKII frame and MKVI cylinder and barrel assembly and made this unholy Webley MKII***. It has MKVI Cylinder and barrel assembly so it can withstand nitro-based ammo (or at the very least a cordite alternative) and since frame is the gun so it is fully legal and antique. To top it all, they got new grip made locally.

They also made speed loaders using .410 speed loaders with central post removed.

I also wish to do the same and have some doubts. Can someone with knowledge in antique restoration help me with following questions?

1. They mentioned they used part of MKVI cylinder cam system. Can someone elucidate what it will amount to? I believe they had to put the cam that rotates cylinder from MKVI to MKII.

2. They mentioned they had to cut new forcing cone and CNC a new ratchet star. Why will a new forcing cone be required? I thought forcing cones forces bullet from cylinder into barrel. That should be a part of barrel assembly, right?

3. Also CNC a new ratchet star. Thats for timing and extraction, right? so they had to make a new one. That sounds a bit worrying. Because it controls timing.. Has anyone here done something similar and what was your experience?

I tried communicating with them but they are maintaining radio silence. Perhaps for a good reason.