Looking to sell my registered handguns and wondering if any businesses will purchase them?

Well, I grew up on the prairies. Guns were a tool, but I was always fascinated by my dad's Marlin .32 Winchester Special, Savage 99c .243, antique shotgun, and .22s (Cooey, Savage, etc).

I freed up a lot of time for shooting a few years ago, and got my PAL. Told my spouse that I " just want a .22 and a 12 gauge".

Fast forward to today and I'm 5 calibres and 5 digits deep, with 5 actions in this hobby. And I COULDN'T BE HAPPIER. 😁

So here's the question: how many of you had a similar experience? And how many are happily shooting 2 calibres and loving this sport/hobby?

Get out and shoot safe this weekend.

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I'm not talking about trap shooting, I mean if you bring a rifle or pistol or whatever, does your range allow you to shoot reactive targets or just paper? way back when I first started shooting, I would shoot paper and I got bored of it really fast. I think that's why I moved to the crowned land so that I could actually shoot reactive things. it really kept my interest going. back when I was looking to join a range, it was pretty much only paper unless it was like a trap shooting range or whatever.

curious if your range allow you to shoot pistols and rifles at anything other than paper and if so, what are you permitted to shoot? I take it it would have to be something both robust and safe

2 FMJ? Middle one is cheap Chinese surplus I assume. What are the other 2. Is the bottom one a soft point?

I mean are there any milsurp stores that sell any firearma cause whenever i go to a city when i can i go and shop at a store that sells milsurp clothes and i shop there but they dont have any guns so are there any stores that still do that or is it no more? (Im young and dont know if it exists here never heard of it so relax)

Look at all these rounds! Looks like heaven to me

Never seen anything like this. Sent them a email inquiring. Only noticed it after my bolt wouldn't close while reloading yesterday. Not sure how this passed by QC.

From top to bottom.
Eickhorn CAN Bayo 2000 - Colt Canada C7A2
Nella Cutlery Co C7 bayonet - Diemaco C7
Canadian Arsenals C1 Bayonet - Canadian Arsenals C1A1 SLR
Long Branch No.4 Mk II bayonet with P37 frog - Long Branch No.4 Mk I*

(Update from previous post)

Was deciding between a coey model 60 rusted out with a cracked stock or a norinco. I opted for the coey and after plenty of elbow grease she is in fine working condition. Barely any rust now with a few more spots to touch up (I kept the ball on the bult rusty for aesthetic) and It was an absolutely blast to shoot over the weekend. Best $125 I've spent in a long while!

I saw someone posted the other day that they bought the new Comp model. I frankly love the look of it, minus the M4 style buffer tube. Not much info on the rifle as it just hit the shelves this week.

Decided to order one from Bullseye to play around with while waiting for the Mk15 to show up.

I have heard all the horror stories on Crusader, and ghosting guys and bad support, issues with the rifles.

I am hoping maybe they have gotten their act together and am willing to be a guinea pig on it.

I was pleasantly surprised to get an extremely fast email response from them. I emailed them yesterday evening asking about parts compatibility, and received a reply first thing this morning, on a holiday too. I was impressed by the speed. I had inquired about parts compatibility with the "shall not be named" other platform. They said the barrels, gas block, handguard, grip, bolt (not BCG), trigger, and i believe dust cover are all compatible. I was pleasantly surprised as there should be lots of possible upgrades available then.

Honestly, I really hope this is a sign they've turned the page on the new model. While they've clearly screwed customers in the past, I gave to credit them for trying to get us modern sporting and hunting rifles to Canadians. My first impression of their customer support was great, far better than the horror stories of the past.

Wish me luck with it. I took the chance and will be the next guinea pig for anyone looking at one. I still plan on getting a Mk15 as well, but this will be fun to play with in the time being.

Have a Vortex LPVO and idk what I’m supposed to slap it on now that the gun it was supposed to be for is in timeout

I was gifted some miscellaneous 22lr and 12g shells . They have varying degrees of patina and corrosion (see in sample). Do you think these are safe to shoot and if so what level of corrosion is to much.

Winchester SXP black shadow and royal slugs 2 3/4 inch.

I took the course and passed my test with 98% back in early September last year and immediately submitted my application, it was quickly marked as "completed initial review" (within a few days) and then it has just sat like that ever since. It has been 208 days as of today. I have called multiple times and the person on the phone simply tells me "we don't know anything either, they keep us in the dark too, call again in 4 weeks I guess" but before that it was "it's on the CFO's desk" ??? Rinse and repeat for the last 7 months.

My application was complete, I had one issue in my earlier years where I had to physically defend myself from an abusive partner with a cooking pot- but it was literally just one hit to get him off of me and I ran out. Otherwise I have never had any issues. I feel like if this was the cause, they've had a long time to interview me about it?

I am beginning to feel a bit ignored by them despite my calls it's like no one works there. It cannot possibly take this long to decide yes or no. I just want to go hunting. Is this normal??

The blue eastwood powder coat turn out pretty slick, slick enough to earn its own up close in the second picture

I've seen tons of posts about BC and AB, but does anyone know how to go about getting one in ON?

If that lever was shorter, you could probably get a faster fire rate.

Maybe the same idea should be implemented for a 5.56 platform.

Just a thought that crossed my mind while the work day comes to any end. Do you prefer internal mags or detachable mags and why?

I've always preferred detachable mags as they make it easy to unload a gun and deal with malfunctions as you got a whole new opening to tackle the issue with.

But there's a lot of guns with internal magazines and magazine tubes. I guess they are lighter and you don't have something protruding out the rifle to snag on a branch, strap or sling. But I don't actually know what the advantages or personal preferences are for them.

So based on some threads here and CGN, pretty much the last shipment of the HC3R tuf-22 magazines has come and gone.

Combining that with Dlask officially closed, are there any plans for another company to make something similar? Realistically, couldn't someone just make new shells for bx-15/25 magazines that have the same notch?

Otherwise as of right now the only other option is u/SpectreBallistics's 597 adapter and their receivers come cut for Tuf-22 magazines.

Why not do some improvising? Introducing my redneck brass catcher. I'll be trying it out on the Derya nine millimetre, as well as the TM22 and some lever action guns soon.

Following weeks of dry-cycling the bolt (on my M77 Ruger GSR .308 WIN) hundreds of times to help 'break in' and smoothen the action, I am finally ready to try a set of dry-cycling using Wheeler 600 grit lapping compound and JB Bore cleaning compound. My intention is to help improve what was initially a surprisingly sticky/rough action from the factory (- I have no interest in aesthetics or polishing the bolt for cosmetic reasons). In terms of the smoothness of the action, when the rifle was brand new, I'd rate it 3 or 4 out of 10. After 1,000 or so dry-cycles over several weeks, I would now rate the action smoothness at about 6 or 7 out of 10. I only intend to apply lapping compound once or twice ever (and then run a set of 250 dry-cycles), to get the action closer to what I'd consider 9/10 smoothness, and then I'll continue to occasionally do dry-cycling drills without any solution applied, indefinitely.

I am new to all of this, but I did look online over several weeks for insights. I'm sharing my intentions here, seeking any advice or clarification regarding concerns or best practices, as some of the information I've seen seems conflicting or was in regard to slightly different bolt models (e.g. Ruger American bolts).

1. I intend to remove the striker assembly from the bolt, to avoid getting any compound on the firing pin or enmeshed in its spring.
One concern is that the Ruger manual cites the firing pin as a component that 'must be factory fit' and I don't want liability issues to affect any warranty coverage. I'm assuming they are referring to the installation of the pin within the striker assembly and setting the compression of its spring, and not merely the removal of the striker assembly(?)

2. I intend to apply compound (Wheeler first, then JB) to the sides and rear of the locking lugs and the full exterior of extractor, because they are what seem to principally make contact with the receiver. However, the information about this online is conflicting.
Some sources suggest ONLY applying compound to the rear of the locking lugs, while others suggest applying to the full exterior of the bolt EXCEPT the locking lugs, so as to avoid headspace issues. Additionally, from what I've seen, all sources remove the extractor entirely for the whole process, which seems counterintuitive to me because it appears to make the most contact with the receiver as the bolt glides through it.
From what I gather, it is mostly the lugs and the extractor making contact with the receiver and thereby presenting friction, so it only makes sense to apply compound there. I've also considered applying compound to the entire external body of the bolt (except the face/head and handle), but I'm weary of causing too much compound mess to be able feasibly remove all of it from the receiver.

3. With the compound applied to the bolt, I intend to dry-cycle the action 250 times, using the complete forward and backward, up and down manoeuvres to open and close the bolt.
Here again, the information online is conflicting, with some sources suggesting to ONLY open and close the bolt (move the handle up and down without cycling the action back and forth), and others suggesting to ONLY move the bolt back and forth without opening and closing the action with up and down movement of the handle.

4. I intend to do all of this on the rifle (that is, without removing the furniture and barrel and placing the receiver in a base vise). I would then try my best to meticulously and manually remove any remaining compound using only the standard rifle cleaning tools I have (e.g. patches, picks, brushes, solutions etc.).
I have seen it done both ways, however I'm weary about adequately being able to remove all compound residue from the recesses for the locking lugs inside the receiver, if the barrel remains attached. (For instance, in one source where the barrel has been removed, there's a suggestion to use compressed air and/or to boil the receiver to remove any residual compound). Yet, I do not want to needlessly remove the barrel, with Ruger also states 'must be factory fit'.

5. Before re-installing the striker assembly, I will attempt to clean the inside of the bolt itself (since there are cutouts through which the compound will likely enter), using the standard general cleaning stools I have, and possibly compressed air, if I get access to equipment. I'm hoping this will be adequate.

6. Finally, after cleaning the receiver and bolt and after removing any residual compound, I will re-lubricate the bolt and action.

I am very much a novice, to firearms in general and to firearm maintenance especially, so I sincerely appreciate any corrective feedback or advice.

As mentioned, I have already seen improvement in the smoothness of the action through dry-cycling alone, and my goal is for marginal improvement from lapping. I am confident that without applying compound the smoothness may get closer to 8/10 with time and continued cycling, but I'd like to help my chances getting it there or beyond. That said, if there is considerable risk of damage (e.g. headspace issues or contamination due to lingering compound in the receiver or inside the bolt), or significant impact to the wear of components, or compromise to warranty coverage, I'd rather just forego the lapping process altogether and settle for 7/10 or 8/10 smoothness.

Thank you, for your time and consideration.

As the title says. My wife's father passed away and we found this in his house. There are no other markings other than the Kessler brand on the stock. It's in pretty rough shape.

Upon receiving my 1301 Mod. 2, I noticed it didn’t come with a Velcro receiver card, and I was wondering if it was supposed to. I ask because my A300 Ultima Patrol came with one.

Normally it wouldn’t be a big deal, just slap some Velcro, but the one included with the A300 UP was laser cut to match the receiver outline perfectly. If the 1301 isn’t supposed to come with one, that’s a little disappointing considering it’s Beretta’s higher end model.

I never got a chance to own any, I was wondering if WS MCR better than the WK180? What about the Lynx 180?

Was the AR180 platform just bad overall? What failed often on it?