I love it when you guys post your $8000 rifles and $7000 scopes so I can show my wife and be like "look hun, this guy's scope costs more than all 4 of my guns... maybe i'm.not that bad after all " 😂

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Russian SKS

Russian Baikal IJ-12 - 12 gauge

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Tikka T3x .308 MDT Premier Gen 2

Tikka T1x .22LR MDT XRS

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I may post these babies often, but here is all 4 all together and their "builds" completed.

1970s Remington 870 Wingmaster, the last two pictures are the only ones I have of it in its original configuration with the 30 inch vent rib barrel I've been slowly getting parts together since I bought the gun. I was going for a 70s FBI/police shotgun, but in my mind every shotgun needs a bayonet so I had to have one even though law enforcement don't run bayonets.

Build list

1. Professionally chopped blu'd 870 Wingmaster barrel without a vent rib

2. Ground down and drilled steel round stock with nut and bolt to accommodate the bayonet

3. Blu'd 870 OEM +2 magazine tube extension (the original one I had was parkerized and clashed with the bluing of the gun)

4. M1 carbine bayonet I believe its official designation is M4 not to be confused with the rifle or shotgun of the same name.

5. S&J bayonet ½ mount

6. Grovtec barrel clamp w/picatinny rail, QD cup, and sling swivel. I'm not a big fan of the pic rail and will probably swap it out with a nut at some point in the near future but its what the bolt screws into so I dont really have a choice, I also decided to exclude the QD cup for the same reason.

7. S&J magazine spring and follower kit, minus the follower I love the smoothness of their spring but I didn't want the high vis follower just a personal aesthetic choice although I do know them to be incredible followers.

And finally to top it all off a custom made leather bandolier/sling. This one was also aesthetic I wanted a leather sling to complement the wood and the dark tones with the lacquer finish but I also wanted it to be able to hold shells so I had something custom made and I'm glad I did because it looks like it belongs on the gun in my opinion, the width makes it very comfortable even loaded down with shells. All said and done I think it was money well wasted.

After month of contemplating what riffle to get brand and calibure. I finally landed on the tikka tx3 308 win. And took about a week to finally track one down and I got it right away. So excited to get a scope and fire it for the first time. I was very torn on the 30-06 bc the stores in my area had more 30-06 selection over tge win but canadian tire had a huge selection of different types for the 308. But for a first deer riffle I think it was the better choice.

Looking to pick up some spare 9mm magazines. What brand have you bought and how do you like them? Any current sales that I can take advantage of?

Hey fellas,

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I am looking to get this communities insight on a .22lr that would fit the bill for the training I want to do.

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I know next to nothing about the semi auto .22 market outside of a bit of googling. I am not really a gun guy but I have a lot of trigger time on AR platforms. I want to maintain that skill set and some previous job specific standards

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Money is not really an issue.

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I am looking for something that feeds reliably, is accurate, and has AR-style ergonomics (preferably even a similar safety selector, mag release, and bolt catch); In that order.

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I intend of mounting an eotech, flashlight, and possibly a laser at some point.

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I want to predominantly shoot between 3 and 25m, working on single to multiple round engagements with a shot clock and some multi-target running around stuff. Hence reliability being the main thing.

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So far I have stumbled across the ruger 10/22 which seems the most customizable, ST 22, Adler, and the Derya TM 22 which seems nice but the pricepoint seems low. I have read about issues with the Adler.

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Any insight on you guys on a good gun or custom build that would check the boxes I want to check?

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Thanks!

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I burnt my thumb in first time of shooting my A300 by holding it with C clamp method

Even with a pair of gloves, I can still feel the heat after 20 shells.

The AR handguard wrap from Cole Tec could do a trick

Added a sling and the pro lifter will come tomorrow.

I think I am done with this minimalistic build

Boys we are heading to Sumatra

Did I hit the jackpot or what! Family member found out a purchased an SKS recently and gave me 15,000 rounds of Chinese surplus ammo for free because he got rid of his rifle years ago. Going to be some nice free shooting.

Left to right mossberg 88, dominion arms outlaw SxS, utas uts-15, and the top rifle is a savage axis 30-06

Far from perfect. Missing the gun holders and some other stuff.

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Somehow my brain is enjoying this.

Decided to take the Derya diaper out again, to try some reloads and faster shooting.

Still working on my precision, but for now it's just plinkin' at 30m.

Definitely one of my favourite antiques to shoot! She’s not just a display piece but a reliable shooter. Definitely recommend for those seeking an antique revolver!

I don't have any mag dump videos, but in the spirit of screw you to the other guy who said they are lame, heres something.

An updated photo of my amateur collection!

Looks much more aesthetic than the MRA Renegade .223

Now that federal has released the 6.5 creedmoor +PEAK with claimed 300 fps increase through a 24 inch barrel, does this change your opinion on the terminal effect of 6.5cm at longer ranges? Considering that the new +PEAK 6.5 cm is hitting the 6.5 prc range of velocity, would you choose 6.5cm or would you still want the more proven cartridge when hunting big game at longer ranges? I've seen plenty of videos on YouTube of people dropping bull elk with 6.5 prc at 500+ yards. I assume 6.5cm +PEAK with a similar or slightly higher velocity as 6.5prc, is going to perform as well or better and have similar terminal effects down range. This leads me to believe that 6.5cm+PEAK is going to be the new .264 king. What do you think?

Many years ago I got a few of these on Amazon. I’m working on a few new projects and would like more. I’ve been searching online for more of them but it seems they’ve been discontinued. Has anyone seen these available anywhere? Thanks

I’m loving this rifle, it is so compact and fun to shoot now especially with the upgrades I’ve done.

Ive got a bunch more ideas coming to make it the ultimate survival rifle.

Where can I find rubber straps for hanging steel, Basspro used to have a kit for $10 but I cant find it anymore, I just need the straps I have the rest of the hardware, any other sources?

TLDR: New Stoeger hand guards for the M3000 Tactical will fit the previous versions of the M3000 Tactical/Tac (what ever they called them). You just have to order a couple of parts to make it work. See below for the part numbers.

Full version:

So if you are like me you bought a Stoeger M3000 Tac a couple of years ago, after they made some esthetic and functional updates, and like me you were probably not enterily happy with the stock and hand guard that came with it.

So what does stoeger do? Have another model come out with more goodies including what looks like a Mlok hand guard. So, do you buy a whole new shotgun or keep what you've got?

Well as it turns out, the handguards of the latest version of the tactical model to come out (which has Mlok slots) will fit the previous version, and you can get adapters from S&J Hardware for 870 stocks for magpul stocks and they have tube extensions if you want that look.

So, how do you get these parts? Well you will need to call Stoeger Canada, navigate to the parts phone line and order at least 2 parts to make this work with your m3000.

Required:

S06x1 (the bit between reciever and handguard)

E01x1 (the handguard itself)

Optional:

E02 x2 E03x1
E04x1

(these will be in your old hand guard already, just need to rotate the clip out of the slots and they should all come out)

Now it may take a couple of months for these to come into the country, because they are being made and shipped from Turkey.

When you recieve them and are ready to tear your gun apart to throw on your new hand guard there are some things you need to know.

1. You will need to take your bolt and action bars out in order to remove the plastic peice in front of the reciever and replace it with S06. Don't forget to yank the bolt handle out (might need plyers as it is in there pretty tight)
2. You will need to fit the new handguard onto the barrel before trying to put the barrel back into the reciever, it will be a tight fit to slide the handguard onto the barrel but that seems to be how it is designed. It seems best to "rock in" the handguard over the mag tube ring on the barrel and then press the handguard and barrel together until it is roughly half way up on the barrel and sort of sits in place.
3. Both barrel and handguard should go back on to the mag tube and into reciever at the same time. If you don't, the barrel will end up trying to go into the reciever on an angle and bind up.
4. You can use the rings and clip from the old handguard, they will look like sort of a short spring, this fits directly behind your barrel. Simply rotate the clip with a flat head screw driver until the raised sides come out of the indents in the old hand guard. Then remove all of the rings and insert them into the new hand guard.
5. Don't forget to fully seat your bolt handle back into the bolt, give it a couple of smacks to make sure it is fully inserted. If not you could loose the dang thing mid range trip.

Hopefully this will help you out if you like the new handguard but do not want to go through the hassle of selling your current M3000 Tac/Tactical and buying the new version.

Thanks all, happy blasting!

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Last night , I was able to put a few more magazines worth of ammunition through this new gun.

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I gave it a quick going over before hitting the range and checked for loose screws , etc. Found a couple of loose ones gave them the tiniest dab of lock tite.

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No problems with loose buffer tube or pistol grip as some other users have had. I noticed that the butt stock has a bit of wiggle room on the buffer tube. Not sure if my TM22 does the same thing, but the plastic parts do look identical.

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I'm finding that the more I use aperature sights , the more I enjoy using them. I started out using the larger aperature on the rear sight, just not thinking about it. I was less than happy with the results at only twenty five yards. When I switched to the smaller aperature , in spite of starting to lose the light, results improved. That doesn't mean I was shooting cloverleaf groups , but I was happy with the way things were coming along.

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As for the action, several people have noted how hard it is to open the action when just cycling the gun without firing any rounds. I found mine to be the same way. But when I actually fired the gun, for some reason I found that something was different. Maybe the recoil force combined with my grip was helping the action open much easier. I find that this gun is much more pleasant to fire than it is to just cycle empty.

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I found that it is important to cycle the gun with authority on the first round of a full magazine. Maybe the upward pressure created by the compressed mag spring , and all those rounds in the magazine is causing some extra friction.

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I don't know if the short barrel has anything to do with this or if it was just the acoustics of the area where I was shooting but holy cow is this thing loud. I accidentally fired the gun twice without ear protection. It seems louder than shooting 38 special through my Henry big boy.

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I'm really enjoying playing around at the range with this gun. My thumbs aren't enjoying the experience of loading the magazines but I have a Ludex magloader on order. I should have that in time for the next range trip.

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Hey everyone! This is my first time having to deal with changing my PAL address, and I’m also in kind of a weird limbo with my RPAL application.

I’ve completed the restricted firearms course, but I haven’t actually applied for my RPAL yet. Since I’m in Quebec, I also have to submit form SQ-3007 with the RPAL application.

My situation is a bit complicated. I’m moving for university soon, but all of my government IDs (driver’s licence, health card, PAL, etc.) are staying at my "home" address, which is my parents’ address. Changing those addresses isn’t an option for medical/insurance reasons.

As I understand it, as long as storage laws are followed, I can keep my non-restricted firearms at my apartment in the city I go to school. The same goes for Quebec's non-restricted registration, which can reflect wherever the firearms are ACTUALLY stored.

However, say I eventually qualified under the Olympic handgun exemption, I would need to keep any restricted firearms at my parents’ house (my father has an RPAL, if that makes any difference). I’d prefer having the handgun at the apartment because it’s HOURS away from my parents’ house.

This leaves me with a couple of questions:
1. When changing the address on my PAL through the CFP/RCMP website, do I need to submit ID and/or proof of address?
If I do, can I use my government-issued ID showing my parents’ address and also use something like my lease or a utility bill to support my university address?

2. For Quebec form SQ-3007, am I understanding the ID requirements correctly?
The form says acceptable identification must be:

1. Issued by a federal, provincial, or municipal government agency.
2. Includes the applicant’s photo AND their residential address. A combination of identification documents that meet both of these criteria is acceptable.

The wording makes me think that the address has to appear on the government-issued ID (or combination of government-issued IDs), and that something like a lease or utility bill wouldn’t satisfy the requirement. Is that correct?

Should I just not get the RPAL and keep this PAL address?

Thanks!