Hey. I was wondering if flare guns are legal to carry by minors in Quebec? I tried finding an answer but I couldn't find an answer regarding MINORS specifically. My dad keeps insisting on making me carry as many safety precautions as possible since I hike with friends etc. I understand that it is legal for adults to own but since I am a minor I wanted to know the legality behind that.

I think I've got one for every job.

Remington 783 in 30-06

Mossberg 590 in 12G

Ruger 10/22 in, of course, .22LR

Marlin 1894 in .357 mag

Hey all, just recently upgraded my minors licence to a full PAL (and soon RPAL 🤞)

Now I’m in the market to buy my first firearm, now fortunately I have a family friend / uncle who has graciously allowed me full access to his arsenal, and I’m looking for an addition that both makes sense as a first gun, but doesn’t overlap with his collection

TM22
Maverick 88
Old Beretta SA 12ga
308, 303, 30-06 bolts (hunting guns)
30-30 win lever

Budget is ~1300 CAD (ignoring tax)
If there’s something greatly better that’s a bit more, I def could continue saving!

I was looking at a few guns, Panzer M4, any 357 lever, Deerya 9mm pump, Sks?

I have been participating in clay sports and F class /PRS with loaners, but long range diciplines seem to be a bit outside my budget unfortunately, I’m hopping to one day be able to participate in dynamic shotgun sports (if IPSC Ontario gets of their f asses and makes a course…)

I am ready to be humbled on my suggestions, please send help 😆

Wanted to see what ammo my CZ 457 - 22 WMR prefers

Tested at 50 yards:

• CCI 40 gr JHP
• Remington 40 gr JHP
• Federal 50 gr JHP

Here's my results

Anyone have experience with this brand/carrier? Looking for a vest without spending too much, this was the cheapest level 3a I could find while searching around. Other recommendations appreciated.

I've been struggling to make the last two rounds feed reliably in my Glock 17 gen 4 from my new Mec-Gar magazine, while my OEM gen 5 mags feed perfectly everytime. The last two rounds often don't get picked up by the slide, even thought the magazine seems to be perfectly seated.

I've talked about it to a friend who then let me test his own magazines with his Glock 34 gen 4, and they fed perfectly. But when I tried one of his in my Glock 17, it would do the exact same thing as mine.

This is confusing me because I thought that perhaps it would be a simple magazine problem, but now I've got the feeling that I'd need to check the gun itself possibly.

Here's what I tried so far:

-I tried cleaning the gun (duh)

-I tried 115gr, 124gr, 147gr JHP

-I tried surplus +p+ IVI ammo to check if more slide velocity did anything

-I compared my Mec-Gar with my OEM magazines at the range

-I tried using someone else's Mec-Gar magazines in my own Glock 17

What I didn't try yet:

-Trying my magazine in someone else's gun

-cleaning and lubricating the magazine with ceramic coating (although it doesn't have a very high round count)

-Changing my Glock's recoil spring with a brand new one (friend's advice)

-Testing if my support hand rubs against the slide sometimes

-removing my Magpul magwell (maybe it's contacting the mags)

-Revert my Gen 5 OEM mag release to the original Gen 4 one (not sure if that'll do anything)

If anyone has any experience or solutions to share, or just wants to tell me that I'm overthinking and perhaps should just stick to OEM magazines (like God intended), feel free to do it.

Painted it but got the wrong scope so just for the photo… will also get some sort of hand stop instead of that gwot grip! So far im loving the gun more then the build haha.

I am trying ( with no luck ) to find a Sterk swept bolt handle for my Tikka T1X. I’d also like to get the larger pistol grip module as well. Any information would be greatly appreciated!

Hey all I have a Sauer 100 in 309 Winmag and love it. After a few years of use thiugh want to switch to an aftermarket stock. Not finding many available, anyone out there have any experince with finding and using one? Suggestions?

Not sure if this is allowed on the sub but I saw this pop up, If anyone lives in the area and is interested in trying out the IWI Carmel before purchasing it I think this would be a great opportunity! Easthill Outdoors is in Clarington ON

Hi everyone, I am looking into getting a 308 bolt action rifle for hunting and some range. I want it to be 20 inches or less and I have narrowed it down to these few:

CVA Cascade SB (Threaded barrel, good price but sort of hard to find)

Tikka T3X Lite Compact (Non threaded barrel, probably the most expensive of all, hard to find and the really expensive mags are a con)

Ruger American Ranch Gen2 (Nice looking rifle, I do have some doubts about a 16 inch barrel and I have heard there might be some issues with the feeding sometimes)

Bergara B14 Ridge SP (Also hard to find and the one I know the least about)

I would like yalls opinion on all of these rifles and if you own them what you guys think of them. Note that I think for this one I would like to buy this gun used and I don't think I would be hunting past 250 meters.

Thank you

The rear ghost ring on the irons is way too big for me to shoot this gun with any repeatability. The red dot makes a huge difference. Ordered a smaller stem in order to actually use the irons as backup.

S&W 1854 .44, Vortex Sparc 2.

Anyone else pick up one of these switch-mode clones of the Benelli M3 Super 90, 12 ga shotgun on discontinued clearance? They are now priced $300 under the past retail price, selling on clearance (with lifetime warranty) from Tactical Imports for just $599 CAD.

I am really quite impressed thus far. By all accounts, the semi-auto mode has proven to be reliable with High Velocity bulk 1 Oz slug rounds as well as 00 Buckshot loads and even 5/8 Oz Birdshot rounds. For less lethal rounds and the like simply switch to Pump-Action Mode with a flick of the spring-loaded collar for manual operation.

I replaced my conventional fixed Buttstock for a Black Diamond brand M4 style telescoping length Buttstock with an adjustable Length of Pull. Much better fit! I also added an extended Bolt Release Lever and Charging Handle along with the factory-optional Picatin̈ny Top Rail. Last but certainly not least was a Mossberg 500 Bayonet Mount from Canadian Safety Source in NS, which clamped on perfectly to the Turknelli Magazine Tube....

This is a LOT of Shotgun for $600. A LOT of Shotgun. I highly recommend it at the current price point. Heck, buy two of them and keep one as a spare.....

Following weeks of dry-cycling the bolt (on my M77 Ruger GSR .308 WIN) hundreds of times to help 'break in' and smoothen the action, I am finally ready to try a set of dry-cycling using Wheeler 600 grit lapping compound and JB Bore cleaning compound. My intention is to help improve what was initially a surprisingly sticky/rough action from the factory (- I have no interest in aesthetics or polishing the bolt for cosmetic reasons). In terms of the smoothness of the action, when the rifle was brand new, I'd rate it 3 or 4 out of 10. After 1,000 or so dry-cycles over several weeks, I would now rate the action smoothness at about 6 or 7 out of 10. I only intend to apply lapping compound once or twice ever (and then run a set of 250 dry-cycles), to get the action closer to what I'd consider 9/10 smoothness, and then I'll continue to occasionally do dry-cycling drills without any solution applied, indefinitely.

I am new to all of this, but I did look online over several weeks for insights. I'm sharing my intentions here, seeking any advice or clarification regarding concerns or best practices, as some of the information I've seen seems conflicting or was in regard to slightly different bolt models (e.g. Ruger American bolts).

1. I intend to remove the striker assembly from the bolt, to avoid getting any compound on the firing pin or enmeshed in its spring.
One concern is that the Ruger manual cites the firing pin as a component that 'must be factory fit' and I don't want liability issues to affect any warranty coverage. I'm assuming they are referring to the installation of the pin within the striker assembly and setting the compression of its spring, and not merely the removal of the striker assembly(?)

2. I intend to apply compound (Wheeler first, then JB) to the sides and rear of the locking lugs and the full exterior of extractor, because they are what seem to principally make contact with the receiver. However, the information about this online is conflicting.
Some sources suggest ONLY applying compound to the rear of the locking lugs, while others suggest applying to the full exterior of the bolt EXCEPT the locking lugs, so as to avoid headspace issues. Additionally, from what I've seen, all sources remove the extractor entirely for the whole process, which seems counterintuitive to me because it appears to make the most contact with the receiver as the bolt glides through it.
From what I gather, it is mostly the lugs and the extractor making contact with the receiver and thereby presenting friction, so it only makes sense to apply compound there. I've also considered applying compound to the entire external body of the bolt (except the face/head and handle), but I'm weary of causing too much compound mess to be able feasibly remove all of it from the receiver.

3. With the compound applied to the bolt, I intend to dry-cycle the action 250 times, using the complete forward and backward, up and down manoeuvres to open and close the bolt.
Here again, the information online is conflicting, with some sources suggesting to ONLY open and close the bolt (move the handle up and down without cycling the action back and forth), and others suggesting to ONLY move the bolt back and forth without opening and closing the action with up and down movement of the handle.

4. I intend to do all of this on the rifle (that is, without removing the furniture and barrel and placing the receiver in a base vise). I would then try my best to meticulously and manually remove any remaining compound using only the standard rifle cleaning tools I have (e.g. patches, picks, brushes, solutions etc.).
I have seen it done both ways, however I'm weary about adequately being able to remove all compound residue from the recesses for the locking lugs inside the receiver, if the barrel remains attached. (For instance, in one source where the barrel has been removed, there's a suggestion to use compressed air and/or to boil the receiver to remove any residual compound). Yet, I do not want to needlessly remove the barrel, with Ruger also states 'must be factory fit'.

5. Before re-installing the striker assembly, I will attempt to clean the inside of the bolt itself (since there are cutouts through which the compound will likely enter), using the standard general cleaning stools I have, and possibly compressed air, if I get access to equipment. I'm hoping this will be adequate.

6. Finally, after cleaning the receiver and bolt and after removing any residual compound, I will re-lubricate the bolt and action.

I am very much a novice, to firearms in general and to firearm maintenance especially, so I sincerely appreciate any corrective feedback or advice.

As mentioned, I have already seen improvement in the smoothness of the action through dry-cycling alone, and my goal is for marginal improvement from lapping. I am confident that without applying compound the smoothness may get closer to 8/10 with time and continued cycling, but I'd like to help my chances getting it there or beyond. That said, if there is considerable risk of damage (e.g. headspace issues or contamination due to lingering compound in the receiver or inside the bolt), or significant impact to the wear of components, or compromise to warranty coverage, I'd rather just forego the lapping process altogether and settle for 7/10 or 8/10 smoothness.

Thank you, for your time and consideration.

With the release of the Backland Hunter Elite, MK-15, and Carmel, I wanted to talk parts.

I haven’t pre-ordered but decided the Makasi will be my next buy, dropping the M1 Garand to second place in my buy queue. I’ve been watching reviews and a currently planning a build. While the Makasi is NOT AT ALL LIKE THE AR-15 IN FORM OR FUNCTION, I wanted to see if anyone more savvy than I can comment on the handguard compatibility and overall potential parts market for new semi-autos hitting stores?

I’ve seen reviews comparing aspects of thethe handguard hardware to geissele offerings and there’s a photo from a SIG forum where an American swapped the handguard on the pistol variant of the Makasi (makes me interested in the restricted models IRG is importing). How difficult would this sort of swap be?

What about the BH or Carmel? Hoping we continue to get new and fun firearms that we can actually use spare parts on or upgrade.

Intersurplus and Gunpost scrap parts fusion:

Swedish Husqvarna M98 receiver

Spanish FR8 barrel and brake in 308

Swedish CG 63 stock

British Lee Enfield front sight and ears

Norwegian rear peep sight

Little to no wind @ 50 yards.

Thinking about grouse hunting this fall. Is this good enough to do a bit head snipping?

Heyy everyone. recently picked up a gen 2 in a 6.5CM as my first ever rifle. Looking at adding a scope onto it now and looking for recommendations. budget is about $750 max (still need to get rings with it). I’ve come across the Burris® Fullfield E3 and the Vortex® Diamondback HP which caught my eye. Anyone have experience with either and can help out with some insight or other recommendations?

Will Be used mostly for hunting with the occasional day at the range. I live in Alberta, Canada and I’m told the 4-16x is the sweet spot for magnification and also I’m not a fan of super busy retrials and prefer simple ones which the 2 I pointed out are.

First time out with m59/66..really liking it so far!

Seems a little more finicky with seating bullets.. had the odd jam.

This is with a hot barrel 300 rnds in..

2 groupings of 20 rnds (norinco 1964)

@120 yards

But it cycles fine!

I just picked up this very slightly used Ithaca Gun Company Model 37/87 Deerslayer Police Special, manufactured in 1987. The previous owner fired one magazine of shells, cleaned it, then stored it for 40 years! An amazing find in an exceedingly rare Military and Police configuration with the 7-shot magazine for 2 3/4",12ga shells.

Considering purchasing this, any advice on the optics or the magazine?

MKII owners, can I use this for shots beyond 100m? Is the vortex optic reliable enough for that?

Is there anything else I should add to my cart?

Super breezy morning at the range but always nice to get out. Tried out the new Tech Sights on the 10/22 and will need to zero them on a better day.

I bought a Tikka T3x Superlite in 223 and when I got it home I realized that my scope hardware doesn’t really work (used to use my scopes on air rifles and the dovetails were more narrow). Thus I need to get a good setup for mounting a scope on this rifle. Complicating things is that I am very left eye dominant (right eye is garbage) but I shoot right so I need a mount setup that will elevate my scope to accommodate that (I know I should just learn to shoot left but I am not going to do that).

The rails milled into the Tikka are 17mm but it seems like most mounts use a 20mm rail so I am thinking I should get a (cheap) picatinny rail and bolt it on as step 1. Then I either need
- a pair of tall/solid rings, or
- a riser that elevates the whole thing, and then rings or a one piece mount, or
- A tall one piece mount with built in rings.

As if that weren’t complicated enough, I have a UTG bug buster scope that I’d like to try on it - but it is short so the rings in a “normal” one piece mount tend to be spaced too far apart to fit. Thus I am wondering about an adjustable length mount.

Or should I scrap all of those ideas and just find a set of tall/raised rings that fit well on the native 17mm dovetail? And if so, any suggestions?

Oh, and I’d like to do all of this as affordably as possible…

I would welcome any advice.