Crusader Arms Templar & Crusader 9 Maintenance Tips and Fixes

[u/MacPapRonin]

With more users getting their hands on and shooting the Crusader Arms Templar and Crusader 9, I thought I'd start a thread with information on maintenance and fixes for problems I've personally run into and the fixes I applied. I own the Crusader 9 Dual Calibre Combo, which includes the Sentinel 5.56mm upper and the Liberator 9mm upper, which are interchangeable on the common Crusader 9 lower. To be very clear, I like the gun, and the problems I've had I feel are minor. The operation, maintenance and potential issues with the Crusader 9 Sentinel are so close as to make the Crusader 9 Sentinel and the Templar functionally identical for the purposes of identifying potential issues.

I will list the ISSUE or RECOMMENDATION, WHEN ENCOUNTERED (with round count when possible), FIX/SOLUTION applied, TIME/MATERIALS required for the fix and CURRENT STATUS of fix - that is, how the fix is holding up and whether any additional action was required.

In any case where I did not personally experience the issue described, I have tried to post a link to the location where it was reported.

ISSUE: Crusader 9 Sentinel 5.56mm upper does not hinge closed properly.

WHEN ENCOUNTERED: On initial assembly

FIX/SOLUTION: Remove two hex screws on left and right side of upper near rear takedown plate. Apply a drop of blue Loctite to each screw. Screw all the way in, then back out screws slowly until upper folds and locks in place properly, ensuring tight fit. Ensure that assembly holds properly in place both in open and closed position while being as tight as reasonable while allowing proper opening. Solution as recommended by Spectre Ltd service, via email communications.

TIME/MATERIALS: 5-10 minutes, M10 hex wrench, blue Loctite

CURRENT STATUS: 400 rounds later, no further issue. [UPDATE - March 4, 2024 ] 1300 rounds no issues.

ISSUE: Crusader 9 Liberator 9mm upper has extraction issues - stovepipes, misfeeds, failure to extract. Extractor assembly loose or falls apart.

WHEN ENCOUNTERED: Ten rounds into firing 9mm Para from Liberator 9mm upper

FIX/SOLUTION: Check that extractor assembly on bolt is intact/in place. In my case, the extractor retention pin had slid out, which caused the entire extractor assembly to become loose. I reassembled the extractor assembly into the bolt and shot again, and the pin continued to slide out, about 2mm per 50 rounds. I contacted Spectre Ltd service and they replaced the bolt at no charge. The issue was either an out-of-spec retention pin or out of spec pin hole. From reporting of problem to receipt of new bolt - 4 business days.

TIME/MATERIALS: 3-5 minutes of disassembly and bolt replacement. New bolt provided for free under warranty

CURRENT STATUS: 600 rounds later, no issue [UPDATE] now up to 2100 rounds - no additional issues related to this.

​

ISSUE: Bolt release lever loose or falls off on Crusader 9 or Templar lower. I later found the bent e-clip on my rifle maintenance mat. It was clearly bent in a way that made me think this was not the clip popping out due to recoil, but that pressure had been applied to the clip in such a way that it bent.

WHEN ENCOUNTERED: 300 5.56mm rounds, 400 rounds 9mm in - the Crusader 9 lower is used on both the 9mm and 5.56mm upper, and the bolt release lever is located on the lower.

FIX/SOLUTION: check if e-clip which retains bolt release assembly in place is bent or absent. Replace if absent or bent. E-clip is 11/64" internal width. Email communications with Spectre Ltd service had them send me four new e-clips, one to fix, three as spares.

TIME/MATERIALS: 2 minutes with needlenose pliers to bend tension spring back under release lever arm, insert e-clip, press e-clip down into place with small flathead screwdriver or tweezers.

CURRENT STATUS: 150 5.56mm rounds + 200 9mm rounds later no issue. [UPDATE] an additional 200 rounds of each type of ammo after status report above, bolt release lever fell off again. This time, the missing e-clip could not be located. I used one of the replacement e-clips that were previously sent and applied blue Loctite to underside of e-clip before pushing into place. Hopefully this prevents vibration from firing somehow popping the e-clip off of bolt release assembly. [UPDATE March 4, 2024] 750 rounds after second bolt release lever issue, I have been checking the e-clip when maintaining the rifle. It has not fallen off since.

NOTE: It is possible that this is potentially caused by applying too much pressure in the wrong direction when pushing the bolt retention lever (that is, pulling down instead of pushing forward). I will see if this issue occurs again, especially if I am mindful of pushing the lever forward instead of trying to pull down/back. [UPDATE] This does not appear to be the case. I was very careful about the direction I pushed the lever after the first e-clip popped off and was fixed. [UPDATE 2] It seems pretty clear that the concussion of firing the rifle can cause the e-clip to slowly back out. In a few maintenance sessions, I have discovered that the e-clip had slid off a bit. I'll be replacing it with a snap ring in the next maintenance session.

​

ISSUE/RECOMMENDED MAINTENTANCE: Charging handle binds or scrapes along charging handle slot. In my case, it was not binding, but it was clearly lightly scraping the charging handle slot. This is a potential issue for both Templar and Crusader 9 uppers.

WHEN ENCOUNTERED: 200 rounds in on 5.56mm upper. Issue not observed on 9mm upper, but fix applied as a preventative measure.

FIX/SOLUTION: Apply gun lubricant with needle-nosed oil bottle to rod, rod retention guide channel along inside of receiver, along bottom of charging handle slot, and top and bottom of charging handle where it comes in potential contact with charging handle slot. Use lubricant sparingly. I did not encounter binding, but one of the Crusader Arms maintenance videos on YouTube ( https://youtu.be/S7ZZj40Ou7g ) recommends checking the hex bolts on the charging handle to make sure they are not loose (and thus allowing "racking" or "pivoting" of the charging handle.

The lubrication of the charging handle slot is now specifically recommended in the Templar manual from Crusader Arms.

TIME/MATERIALS: 2 minutes with needle nose lubricant oil applicator, hex wrench if required.

CURRENT STATUS: No additional binding or scraping encountered, 200 rounds later [UPDATE - March 4, 2024] 1100 rounds after initial notice of issue, wear is minor but noticeable on lower edge of charging handle slot - lubrication as a regular preventative is definitely recommended.

[u/PteSoupSandwich]

I see most of these issues occur sub 500 rounds in..

What the fuck

[u/MacPapRonin → u/PteSoupSandwich]

So, yeah, I agree that looks bad, but I want to address each:

Upper not folding shut.

The 5.56mm upper for the Crusader 9 was sold after initially selling the 9mm upper only. According to service, each Sentinel upper was mated and tightened to each lower, as tolerances for hinging the upper shut were very tight. In my case, who ever assembled the components inside the box may have not quite adjusted the Sentinel 5.56mm exactly to the lower. The Liberator 9mm upper fit and hinged shut with no issues. So that's a QC and inspection issue. Granted. Fixed with 2-3 minutes of work and Loctite.

Extractor assembly issue

The service department said that this was an out-of-spec issue. They replaced the defective item quickly and at no cost to me. Again, QC, but apparently this specific issue has not been encountered by other users, so it may have been a fluke for me. Fixed with a warranty return that took 4 business days.

​

Bolt release lever

No, an e-clip should not be bending out of shape after 200-300 rounds. BUT, and this is big but, I may have caused the issue by mistakenly pulling down and back on the extractor lever instead of pushing up and forward. This was me not understanding the mechanism well. If I did this enough times, I could see me eventually putting enough levered bending pressure on the clip. So this may have been an operator error causing the problem. Fixed with warranty replacement parts that came within 3 days and two minutes of work.

​

Charging Handle Scraping

It wasn't actually interfering with operation - it was a cosmetic issue, and one which was quickly addressed by lubricating at the right points. Fix to this was a simple modification of the maintenance process.

​

Point of impact drift - loose barrel

This one I have to say is a very serious issue and one of the main reasons why I decided to write this thread. I have not personally encountered this, but obviously this would be a big issue. This is QC and design - a barrel shouldn't come loose with standard use. BUT, it seems that Loctite fixes the issue, even if you encounter it.

So yes, absolutely all of these problems with the exception of the loose barrel occured sub 500 rounds, but one was a fluke, one might have been operator error, one was cosmetic and even a novice gun-owner like me spotted it and fixed it quickly.

The rifle I own (Crusader 9 Dual Calibre Combo) is currently running fine and I haven't spent more than an hour with minor adjustments and repairs in total.

[u/Hammerforged14 → u/PteSoupSandwich]

I’m past 3000 rounds. No issues, great gun. Not trying to be that guy, but if you don’t clean and learn/button up and tighten your rifle when you get it from the store/online. Then you aren’t being responsible for your own firearm. When I got it I took it apart, cleaned it with my fav oil, loctite, and checked every inch. Slight west where charging handle slot is and minor ware on deflector. Templar is going in the right direction with this.

[u/why-V-are]

Thank you for taking the time and effort for any other owners out there - we need more community members like you bud!

[u/MacPapRonin → u/why-V-are]

I appreciate the feedback, thank you!

Sometimes I think that Canadian gun manufacturers really suffer at the hands of tall poppy syndrome ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tall_poppy_syndrome ) - no one wants to buy a Canadian-manufactured gun, so no gun manufacturer gets the experience they need to improve the product, so they keep on making bad guns.

I've had more than a few people tell me - don't buy a Canadian gun, they're all garbage. But they'll ALWAYS be garbage if no one buys, them, tests them and gives feedback on them. Then they say "if you keep on buying garbage, all they'll make is garbage".

This rifle isn't perfect. But it's Canadian, it shoots well, and I enjoy it. I'm going to put as much effort as I can into supporting and encouraging my fellow Templar and Crusader 9 users so we can build up that knowledge base of how to identify and overcome issues with the rifles, while maintaining objective and critical perspective on the quality of the rifle line.

To be clear, this isn't a Tavor, a Bren 2, or a APC 223. I know that. I hope everyone who buys them knows it too. This is a Canadian gun, and Canadian gun manufacturers, with a few very specific exceptions, don't have a lot of history outside of the WWII period, and especially with needing to make "cope guns" based on the AR-180 platform.

[u/lethalautism]

It’s kinda funny you can buy a rifle from 100 years ago that just works but Canadian manufacturers can’t make a rifle in 2023…

[u/Kaffarov → u/lethalautism]

Honestly it's kinda embarrassing at this point.

[u/AstrodudeCA → u/lethalautism]

I don’t think we can make rifles 100 years ago. We still can’t.

[u/MacPapRonin → u/AstrodudeCA]

Long Branch-manufactured Lee Enfield No. 4 Mk 1* rifles and Bren MkII LMGs are considered very good quality firearms for general issue to Commonwealth forces. Long Branch is in Etobicoke, ON, about a 30 minute drive from my house in Toronto. I've toured the buildings they used to be manufactured in.

Rifles made by Colt Canada (formerly Diemaco) located in Kitchener, Ontario, are considered a gold standard by many nations' special forces units. They're still making them.

So, it's not that we can't. It's that we haven't had a critical mass of civilian market-targeted manufacturers built up that can compete with the behemoth to the south.

[u/AstrodudeCA → u/MacPapRonin]

Thanks for the history explained. That’s good knowledge learnt. Turns out we do have solid manufacturers but these new comers got lazy. I live literally 5 min from WK factory and that’s also the reason I chose them for Gen 1 and Gen 2. Bought three of them in the past two years but kept none of them because all of them being problematic. The two Gen 2s I got were malfunctioning right out of box and had to be send back to factory for a “reset”. I am very disappointed but I know those guys and they are good ppl. I guess even it’s not rocket science to make them but does require insight and experience.

[u/MacPapRonin → u/AstrodudeCA]

Sorry to hear you've had a bad experience. If you're still in the market for a 5.56mm gun under $2200, the Templar, and the BCL Siberian SRV are still contenders. For $2500 or so, you can look at the Sterling R18 Mk2, if the WK180 Gen 2s are out (for you).

If people don't care about buying Canadian, and can afford it, the Tavor X95 at $3000 (occasionally $2900 on sale), the Bren 2ms NR (if you can find one) at $3500 or the B&T APC 223 at $4500+ (depending on configuration) are all better quality, more reliable and more thoroughly tested 5.56mm firearms.

[u/AstrodudeCA → u/MacPapRonin]

Thanks. I’m definitely in search for a 556 cause I got my license after the AR ban. I’m right now in pre order list of a Siberian and Bren 2 NR. Hope Canadian made BCL won’t fail me again and Bren finally makes his way to Canada.

[u/MacPapRonin → u/AstrodudeCA]

I hope you get your Bren 2ms NR and the BCL Siberian turns out well.

[u/AstrodudeCA → u/MacPapRonin]

Thanks I think that’s also thousands of ppl’s wish

[u/marston82 → u/MacPapRonin]

Problem is Colt Canada is no longer selling their ar15s to the Canadian public due to the ban. And if they have some insane ACR like rifle design (which they probably do) ,sitting in their factory right now they would never introduce it for civilian sale because the liberals have probably unofficially told them not to do it. Colt Canada relies on Canadian government contracts to literally survive and would never try to upset the government in power right now. Government orders for c7s and c8s keep the lights on in Colt Canada.

[u/CoyoteEastern4928 → u/MacPapRonin]

don't forget the Browning HP the C1 and the 1911's, although I think the last was done in montreal, but yes all very good quality and well made!

[u/Cingetorix → u/AstrodudeCA]

Why is my SKS, made in a shitty Soviet factory in 1952 for peanuts, more robust than a gun made in a Canadian factory in 2023?

[u/Cingetorix → u/[deleted]]

making a quick buck

I think this is the core of the problem.

[u/Cingetorix → u/[deleted]]

Yay monopolies....

[u/MacPapRonin → u/Cingetorix]

Because the Soviet Union in 1952 had over 30 years of firearms manufacturing knowledge, and if you include Russian predecessors, well over 300 years of institutional, generational knowledge. They were not limited to having to base their semi-automatic mechanisms based on a dated (and arguably always slightly flawed) short stroke gas piston design from 60+ years before because of arbitrary legislation.

Canadian manufacturers are starting with very limited institutional knowledge, working within arbitrary legislative boundaries, with a tiny fraction of the investment and testing that the Soviet Union could afford, in factories that have to be tooled from the ground up, instead of armories that have been churning out literally hundreds of thousands of weapons for over thirty years, with thousands of workers who are used to churning out such weapons available to pick from.

[u/Cingetorix → u/MacPapRonin]

Soviet engineers and machinists had to rely on manually cranked lathes, manual measurements and doing everything by hand, over and over again, with various logistical limitations especially in the middle of a war. They're all finished like shit yet they all function after decades of abuse. Why?

Here they can't even get a CNC'd product right and are too lazy to innovate (having to take apart the handguard and piston every time to clean is lazy design, I've seen AR handguard that provide a great solution to this (look up the Fortis Switch).

I understand there is no incentive due to the shitty legislative situation and tiny market but still, somehow ATRS can do it, so I dont buy the notion that we have limited technical knowledge.

You know why I have this opinion? Because I've handled many beautiful quality CNC AR-15 receiver sets from boutique manufacturers back when you could, and they were all gorgeously made with deep black anodizing and perfect fit and finish. Don't tell me we can't do the same here technologically speaking.

We just don't have the market conditions to support this kind of industry and it's a very bad thing when it comes to ensuring Canadian manufacturing excellence, especially for small arms.

[u/MacPapRonin → u/Cingetorix]

We can. We just haven't for the civilian market.

The wrong investors, the wrong teams of designers and producers have tried before. One may argue, depending on how you view Crusader Arms and BCL's current offerings, that they still haven't gotten it right.

Canada is less than one-tenth the market of the United States. Investors don't come to Canada to invest in the Canadian firearms industry. There isn't a vast pool of firearms machinists and tool and die specialists to choose from here.

It's a limited market in Canada. Almost a niche. Only a few companies are trying to get into it. And then they get crapped on by every Canadian gun owner, sometimes rightly but also not infrequently, unfairly.

And then everyone tells them to buy Israeli, Czech or US made products instead.

[u/Cingetorix → u/MacPapRonin]

I think the problem is twofold as we've both touched upon (as have others) - people are willing to buy crap because:

• it's one of the only types of rifle left available at its price point
• only a small market of buyers exists and its getting smaller

compared to the US where there's lots of competition and the market's getting bigger so there's lot of incentives to be the best product from a it and finish perspective and to innovate, and they have a much larger economy of scale for raw materials, technical expertise and machine time. We have none of that.

[u/MacPapRonin → u/Cingetorix]

You speak truth.

[u/MacPapRonin → u/[deleted]]

It shouldn't be this hard, but the people/groups who are making the effort here in Canada seem to be having trouble. I agree.

Quick buck? Inexperience?

Who knows. Hanlon's Razor - never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity.

[u/Q-Ball7 → u/Cingetorix]

Because the entire pool of Canadians who are capable of making guns more robust and reliable than an SKS are working for US companies. And this has been true for a long, long time; remember, John Garand was Canadian by birth.

[u/MacPapRonin → u/[deleted]]

Thanks! I appreciate your feedback.

Again, as mentioned above, it seems bad, just from a cursory count of the number of issues and the fact that they occurred in relatively low round counts. But of the issues I've personally reported so far, one was cosmetic and is easily addressed with lubrication, three were easily fixed within minutes with blue Loctite and simple tools, one did require a warranty return, and another required replacement parts to be sent - and that one may have been caused by user (me) misunderstanding of the working of the part (bolt release lever) and effectively bending it by pushing it the wrong way too often.

I am completely new to rifle ownership and I was able to complete the fixes with communications with Spectre Ltd and have had the rifle working now for 200-300 rounds in one or the other upper with no new issues.

Of course, every evaluator should make their own judgement on whether these issues are a deal-breaker or not. I don't think they should be, but that's my opinion. As gun owners and consumers we're all free to make our decisions independently. I'm trying to provide as much honest, clear and concise description of problems as I can.

[u/MacPapRonin → u/[deleted]]

That's fair and I respect your opinion. I confess I was a little disappointed to run into these issues given that I was paying a fair amount (in my case, the Crusader 9 Dual Calibre Combo with 9mm and 5.56mm uppers with the Magpul furniture upgrade and pre-installed 2.5-5 lbs TriggerTech trigger came to $2,599 before taxes). But I knew going in that it was a new and relatively untested product.

People have said - "why should you pay to be a beta tester on a product"?

Yeah, I get that as well. I was willing and financially able, and I wanted to try to support a Canadian manufacturer. I took the plunge of my own free will, knowing the potential for what I was getting into. Time will continue to tell. I'll probably pass 500 rounds on the Sentinel 5.56mm upper in the next two weeks, and I'm already at the 600 mark on the 9mm.

[u/MacPapRonin → u/[deleted]]

Ha! Very true!

[u/MacPapRonin]

ISSUE/RECOMMENDED PREVENTATIVE MAINTENTANCE: Point of impact drift on Crusader Templar - inconsistent point of impact when attempting to zero or otherwise be accurate while shooting. Point of impact would drift randomly from side to side by as much as 5" when shooting. Please note that I have not personally encountered this issue, it was reported by a user on CGN here: https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/2305750-The-Templar-Thread-5-56-by-Crusader-Arms-Spectre-LTD?p=19460016&viewfull=1#post19460016

WHEN ENCOUNTERED: 1500 rounds

FIX/SOLUTION: Remove eight screws on upper, four on each side which lock barrel in place, just above the forward takedown pin, behind the handguard. Apply Loctite to all screws, screw in carefully and sequentially as you might a replacement tire, so that equal pressure is being applied by all screws. Witness mark all screw holes and monitor for screws coming out. [EDIT] Since writing this fix, Crusader Arms has released the manual for the Templar, which makes clear that the eight bolts mentioned above actually hold the steel trunnion into which the barrel nut screws. Loose trunnion -> loose barrel nut -> loose barrel.

[EDIT] Alternative - if barrel/trunnion is not already loose, unscrew a single screw, Loctite it, screw in and witness; then repeat with each of the eight screws in turn to keep the barrel zero. (suggestion from user Ustauk at CGN - makes sense!)

TIME/MATERIALS: 10-15 minutes of work with hex wrench, Loctite

CURRENT STATUS: User reports rifle is working correctly now, no reports on how many rounds fired since fix applied. [UPDATE - March 4, 2024] 1300 rounds fired - no evidence of barrel looseness observed. Screws remain tight and co-witnessed.

[u/AdamSavage119 → u/MacPapRonin]

You should loctite these screws right when you get the rifle. The barrel will become quite loose over time if you do not.

[u/WereComfortablyDumb → u/MacPapRonin]

Thanks for advice, its really appreciated. I had already have it apart when I got it cause its pretty simple. but today I did it again cause I had noticed they wasn't much of anything as far as gun oil. It was bone try everywhere except the bolt and cam pin and a little on the backside of the firing pin. I guess because they chose to go with aluminum monolithic upper they added steel plates for the cam channel so it didn't get warn through as easy or something like. But yeah, kinda frustrating you buy a 2300 rifle and my 500 dollar .22 mini scar as a vast manual lol. Not going to lie I thought they came in cases too haha. Have a good Canada day brother.

[u/MacPapRonin]

CURRENT MAINTENANCE ROUTINE: I cleaned and oiled the Crusader 9 Dual Calibre Combo after receipt, and again after 100 rounds through each upper. As an experiment, I am not going to clean the gun until I have put 500 rounds total through each upper, then take a picture of how dirty all the components are.

For general maintenance and lubrication, there is a YouTube video here for the Crusader 9, many steps of which can be applied to the Templar.

https://youtu.be/XGZtDKLFrEQ

Make safe and disassemble rifle as indicated in video above.

• Lubricate length of recoil rods under springs lightly with gun lubricant or CLP.
• Apply lubricant to charging handle guide channel on inside upper left (or right, if you have switched the charging handle side) of receiver; along bottom of charging handle slot; and top and bottom of charging handle where metal can contact the top and bottom of charging handle slot. Apply lubricant sparingly.
• Check that e-clip that retains bolt release lever assembly is not bent or absent. If bent or absent, replace with 11/64" e-clip.
• Clean barrel, inside of upper and lower receiver as desired and at intervals you deem necessary.
• [edit, added] Check trigger pins for possible walk-out. Adjust and tighten or replace with non-walking pins
• [edit, added] Check gas valve pin (screw-in part that holds gas piston in place) is tight and has not backed out. If loose or backed out, apply loctite and use socket head screwdriver (or wrench with extension) to tighten.

In my case, neither upper seems to be too dirty, even after 600 rounds of 9mm and 400 rounds of 5.56.

[u/MacPapRonin → u/MacPapRonin]

Update: I did not clean the 5.56mm upper for 500 rounds of shooting and the 9mm upper for 800 rounds of shooting.

This imgur link shows images of the uncleaned condition of both uppers after the round counts mentioned: https://imgur.com/a/mswGQif

[u/MacPapRonin]

ISSUE/RECOMMENDED MAINTENTANCE: Thread protector on Crusader 9 Liberator 9mm upper barrel is loose/is becoming loose

WHEN ENCOUNTERED: 300 of 9mm rounds in

FIX/SOLUTION: Unscrew thread protector. Apply blue Loctite to threads. Screw on until hand-tight. Allow to dry overnight.

TIME/MATERIALS: 3 minutes with hand unscrewing loose thread protector, then applying blue Loctite, then hand-tightening thread protector.

CURRENT STATUS: Thread protector not loose 300 rounds later. [UPDATE - March 4, 2024] remains tight after firing 2000 rounds since problem was addressed.

[u/MacPapRonin]

EDIT: Apparently some parties are getting the impression that I am a Crusaders Arms company employee or representative or that I am trying to present myself as a Crusader Arms representative. I am not a Crusader Arms representative. I am an owner of a Crusader 9 Dual Calibre Combo who is trying to help fellow Crusader Arms firearms owners get the best experience they can out of their firearm. I feel that the rifle is decent value for money but has some flaws and owners could benefit from pooling experiences in dealing with issues and maintaining the rifle.

[u/RabidShark1]

Hey. Just wanted to add an issue that I had with mine today. Just received it a couple days ago and haven't had any rounds through it.

While going through the gun, bolt catch fell off the release lever. Found the E-clip had fallen off and looks like it was bent when installed so wasn't seated properly. Straightened it out and reinstalled for now, will likely be changing it out for a properly sized snap ring when I can get one.

I have a picture but I am reddit illiterate and not sure how to add photos.

[u/MacPapRonin → u/RabidShark1]

Thanks, u/RabidShark1 - sorry to hear that you had that issue. The e-clip falling off so that the bold catch lever detaches issue is mentioned in the original thread post, and yours is the second I've heard of where the clip has already fallen off when the firearm was first taken out of the box. The size of the e-clip is mentioned above if you need it. In this case, given how often this seems to be happening, a snap ring as opposed to an e-clip, may end up being a more sensible choice.

Thanks for adding your experience.

[u/MacPapRonin → u/[deleted]]

My shooting buddy bought the X95. He and I go to the range together so I can shoot his anytime we're there at the same time. It's fun. Great rifle. Clearly better fit and finish than either CA offering. The X95 is military grade and battle tested. I will not for a moment argue that the Crusader 9 or the Templar are better than the Tavor, the Bren 2 or the B&T APC 223 - they're just not.

I wanted something different, Canadian made, and semi-auto, with the ability to shoot 5.56x45mm. This is what I went with. I made my bed, now I'm sleeping in it. If there were Canadian made AR15s still available for sale, I would have bought one of those.

This was in no way "5D gun smith chess". I'm handy with figuring out mechanical problems, generally, but nothing I've run into needed any great skill or insight.

Donkey shit? I disagree. But you're entitled to your opinion, of course. I just hope it's based on first hand experience, rather than heresay.

[u/MacPapRonin → u/[deleted]]

Thanks for your answer. I guess I have a different definition of what constitutes 5D chess.

[u/MacPapRonin → u/[deleted]]

I won't argue that - he's a heavy boi!

[u/MacPapRonin → u/[deleted]]

I agree that the BRN-180 looks like a better designed firearm.

I disagree strongly that the Crusader Templar/Sentinel and Sterling Arms R18 Mk2s are "turd guns".

[u/MacPapRonin]

ERGONOMICS UPGRADE: Magpul MOE stock wobbles/rattles slightly on OEM buffer tube extension (it's not actually acting as a buffer tube as the AR-180 layout does not require it). This is not an issue specific to Templars/Crusader 9s - it's apparently common with Milspec AR15-style buffer tubes in conjunction with many third-party stocks.

WHEN ENCOUNTERED: Out of the box on Crusader 9 lower. (Most) Templars come shipped with the F5 MFG ACR-style stock, but if swapped out for after-market milspec buffer tube (or buffer-tube option purchased), may be encountered.

FIX/SOLUTION: Apply Velcro "loop" pad (hook and loop fastener, the "soft/fuzzy" side, not the "sharp/hard" hook side) - to inside tube of MOE stock, an inch or so from the opening on the upper interior surface. Press firmly, allow 15-30 minutes to adhere, then angle stock onto tube. Wobble/rattle eliminated. This is one of many, many videos on YouTube which suggest this fix - you can pick whichever one you prefer: https://youtu.be/armELc_bC_4

TIME/MATERIALS: $4 CAD package of hook and loop fasteners (I got the actual name-brand Velcro pads at Canadian Tire - you may get something cheaper at a dollar store), 30 seconds to remove stock, apply sticker and re-attach stock.

CURRENT STATUS: Appears permanently fixed. No issues, 200 rounds of 9mm and 80 rounds of 5.56mm later.

[u/MacPapRonin]

ISSUE: As reported in at least one Templar by one user (Jamessmart24) at CGN, the bolt would lock back and/or fail to consistently load the next round when using Gen 2 PMAGs

See original thread at CGN: https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/2305750-The-Templar-Thread-5-56-by-Crusader-Arms-Spectre-LTD?p=19563002&viewfull=1#post19563002

WHEN ENCOUNTERED: Immediately on first attempt to use Gen 2 PMAGs

FIX/SOLUTION: a) Use Gen 3 PMAGs (not Gen 2s) only on Templar. b) (from user Jamessmart24): "The gen 2 Pmag has a rounded slot where the bolt catch rests, lifting it slightly higher than it should be. Simply taking a file or knife to and squaring out the slot fixed the issue for the Gen2 Pmag."

TIME/MATERIALS: a) Cost of new Gen 3 PMAG or exchange process. b) 5 minutes with file or knife

CURRENT STATUS: User has not yet reported on additional usage since fixes applied. [UPDATE] User jamesmart24 reports that two different Gen3 PMAG magazines all cycle with no issue. [UPDATE] Some owners of WK180Cs are reporting similar issues with Gen 2 PMAGs in their WK rifles. No confirmation of whether this is a issue with the PMAGs themselves or something in common with both AR-180 designs.

[u/MacPapRonin]

ISSUE: Steel-cased Barnaul FMJ 55gr .223 ammunition experienced multiple failure to fire issues according to one user, u/marston82, reported in this thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/canadaguns/comments/13dcg89/comment/jjleso5/

User u/marston82 reported, "It does not like steel cased Barnaul 223. I got numerous failure to fire with a round chambered. i heard a click when I pulled the trigger." User was unable to confirm whether they were light strikes or another issue.

WHEN ENCOUNTERED: When firing steel-cased Barnaul FMJ 55gr .223 ammunition.

FIX/SOLUTION: Avoid firing Barnaul steel-cased ammunition.

TIME/MATERIALS: None, unless you already purchased Barnaul ammo and have to return/exchange it.

CURRENT STATUS: Only reported by one user, but assumed to be correct.

[u/MacPapRonin]

ISSUE: On at least one Templar with a TriggerTech trigger group, the trigger group retention pins "walked out" after a certain amount of shooting. Pins may be lost if not noticed and pushed back in before they walk out enough to fall out. Reported by user u/captlevasseur in this thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/canadaguns/comments/13rzkmy/crusader_arms_templar_trigger_pins_may_work/

Issue may also occur in Milspec triggers or Crusader 9 firearms - not confirmed. This issue has been noticed by at least two owners; one owner pushed them back in before they fell out, another owner reported that they walked out enough that one fell out and was lost.

WHEN ENCOUNTERED: 500 rounds fired.

FIX/SOLUTION: Before and after shooting, briefly check retention pins for trigger group. Push back if if they have walked out. In lower receivers with TriggerTech groups, tighten screws which friction retain retention pins in place.

From u/PrivateLandBoi "Triggertech triggers use 2 tensioning screws on either side of the trigger housing to keep tension on those pins."

TIME/MATERIALS: 30 seconds, punch, allen key wrench for tightening tensioning screws

CURRENT STATUS: Pending - lost pins may require warranty replacement. Pushing retention pins back in should reduce chances of pins being lost; look for other solutions (anti-walk pins) if pins keep coming out.

[u/MacPapRonin]

ISSUE/RECOMMENDED MAINTENTANCE: Gas valve pin (term used by CA for the screw-on part that holds the gas piston in place) coming/or has come loose. If fired while pin is loose, part may be ejected downrange. Reported by user r/OrionPax120 in this thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/canadaguns/comments/14fus9s/templar_failure/

WHEN ENCOUNTERED: 200 rounds

FIX/SOLUTION: Use hex head socket screwdriver or wrench with extension arm to ensure gas valve pin is tight (reference Crusader Arms Templar manual). If valve persists in coming loose, use Loctite (red or blue as desired) to lock threaded portion in place. Recommend that check of gas valve pin tightness be added to maintenance and cleaning routine.

TIME/MATERIALS: 2 minutes with socket hex driver or wrench, loctite.

CURRENT STATUS: Results pending. Assuming gas valve pin is tightly applied, no additional issues should arise.